Lexique de la chemise

The shirt glossary

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Immerse yourself in our comprehensive lexicon dedicated to the world of men's shirts: from technical terms to refined finishes, discover everything you need to know about fabric, cuts, patterns, and much more. Ideal for fashion enthusiasts and those seeking a better understanding of the craftsmanship behind the perfect shirt.


  • Armhole: The part of the shirt sleeve that starts from the shoulder and goes around it to the armpit.

  • Assembly: Process of assembling different pieces to create a shirt.


  • Bib: Reinforced fabric piece at the front of a shirt, usually for formal occasions.

  • Bias: Fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain, providing more elasticity.

  • Bow tie: Men's fashion accessory, an alternative to the tie.

  • Button-down collar: Collar with buttons to ensure a neat lapel that stays in place.

  • Buttonhole: Set of openings used for threading the buttons of a shirt.

  • Buttons (Mother of pearl button): Button made from a shell (Troca) that is stronger than plastic.


  • Casual shirt length: Length suitable for wearing the shirt outside the pants.

  • Canvas: Basic fabric used to make a clothing prototype.

  • Chambray: Fabric with a mottled appearance, can be made from cotton or linen.

  • Checkered (pattern): Shirt pattern with a casual style proportional to the size of the checks.

  • Classic (fit): Standard cut of a shirt, neither too loose nor too tight.

  • Club collar: Collar with forward pointing tips, closed with a button.

  • Collar: The upper edge of the shirt. There are dozens of collar styles, from classic to modern.

  • Collar stay: A small flat stainless-steel rod that ensures a firm hold of the shirt collar.

  • Combed cotton: Cotton with a soft and silky finish achieved through the combing process.

  • Cotton (Combed cotton, Twill cotton): Fabric with various weaves and finishes.


  • Denim: Soft cotton fabric with fine diagonal patterns like denim.

  • Double twisted: Weaving of a double warp thread with a double weft thread to create a reinforced thread.


  • Ease: Additional space added to certain parts of a garment to ensure comfort.

  • English collar: Collar with a collar tab, closed twice by a button connecting the two parts of the collar.


  • Fabric weight: The weight of the fabric per square meter. The higher the weight, the thicker the fabric.

  • Flannel: Lightweight and soft to the touch fabric, often made of wool or cotton.

  • French collar: Minimalist collar with a slight opening and points pointed downward.

  • French seam: Sewing technique that hides the fabric's edges.


  • Gathering: Small fabric folds made to add volume or adjust the size.

  • Gingham (pattern): Pattern with small checks.

  • Gorge (American, Hidden, Single): Type of placket in shirts, with different styles.


  • Heat bonding: Technique using heat to adhere two fabrics together.

  • Houndstooth (pattern): Geometric pattern often in black and white.


  • Length: Measurement of a shirt from the shoulder to the bottom of the garment.

  • Linen: Plant fiber from the flax plant. Ideal for summer due to its cooling properties.


  • Mandarin collar: Short collar without rounded corners, worn slightly open.

  • Mother of pearl button: Button made from a shell (Troca) that is stronger than plastic buttons.


  • Oxford: Sturdy shirt fabric made of cotton with a slightly rough texture.


  • Pattern matching: Arrangement of patterns or colors on fabric or a garment.

  • Pleats: Folds sewn into a garment to make it more fitted.

  • Placket: Piece of fabric that holds the buttonhole in place.

  • Pocket (Flap, Rounded): Small fabric piece sewn on a garment to hold small items.

  • Poplin: Fine cotton fabric, slightly silky, ideal for formal shirts.

  • Print: Design or pattern added to the fabric of the shirt.


  • Reinforcement: Additional fabric piece sewn to a garment to strengthen it.

  • Reverse collar: Collar with invisible flaps as they are tucked inside the neck.

  • Rounded pocket: Shirt pocket with a rounded bottom.


  • Sea Island cotton: Variety of cotton known for its softness and fiber length.

  • Shoulder: The shoulder of a shirt is one of the measurement points for its proper size.

  • Slim (cut): Close-fitting cut of a shirt.

  • Square cuffs: Shirt cuffs with straight corners.

  • Stripes (pattern): Vertical or horizontal lines on the fabric.


  • Tab (American, Hidden, Single): Piece of fabric used to hold the buttonhole in place.

  • Tartan (pattern): Scottish plaid pattern.

  • Tie: Accessory that adorns the lower part of the shirt collar, around the neck.

  • Topstitching: Visible sewing on the front of a garment.

  • Trimmings: Ornaments for French cuffs.

  • Tunisian collar: Casually styled T-shaped collar, open to the middle of the chest.

  • Troca: Shell used for button manufacturing.

  • Twill cotton: Weave of a shirt with a thicker and more robust appearance, with very fine visible lines.

  • Twill: Fabric with a diagonal pattern.


  • Uni: Solid fabric of a single color without a pattern.


  • Weave: The interlacing of warp and weft threads forming the fabric.

  • Weft thread: Thread placed in the widthwise direction. Along with the warp thread, they are interwoven on a loom to create the fabric.

  • Wool: Animal fiber derived from the fleece of sheep.


  • Yarn count: Measure of the fineness of the thread used in a fabric.


  • Zampa di Gallina: Hand sewing technique that imitates the pattern of a rooster's foot.
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