Linen is gradually creeping into all areas of "responsible" textiles. These days, it's impossible to open the page of a conscientious fashion brand without coming across a growing number of linen-based products. This "miracle" fiber is said to be a remedy for the consumption of non-natural fibers; it is said to be ecological, biodegradable, and robust for fabrics. However, many consumers still have trouble making the decision to buy a linen-based item, and we're not even talking about those made from 100% linen!
So is linen a victim of its reputation?
Linen has long been associated with holiday outfits, those jacket-and-trousers sets so characteristic of sunny holidays. Its properties, particularly in terms of thermoregulation, have been recognized for centuries and make it one of the preferred textiles when faced with extreme heat, but also when faced with cold and the vagaries of the weather - remember that Egyptian mummies were bandaged with linen, allowing us centuries later to find bodies in good condition. However, while linen was widely used until the end of the 20th century, recent decades have seen it abandoned in favor of other newly created fibers - particularly artificial fibers. The latter is said to be too creased, a little old-fashioned and therefore not very easy to wear. However, in recent years, linen seems to be regaining its nobility and making a significant comeback. Designer Simon Porte-Jacquemus made it the central material of his fall-winter 2020 show, reminding us that the thermoregulatory properties of linen also apply to the cold. The collections of brands attentive to the impact of their production are therefore increasingly returning to linen. The natural fiber is used for its robustness, and it is often mixed with other fibers such as cotton. We are also seeing an increase in the number of 100% undyed pieces, leaving room for the natural color of the fiber.
Linen is therefore making a comeback , and that's a good thing. Because this natural fibre has many advantages. Its production, of which France is the leader with Belgium (so close!), does not require artificial irrigation, but is satisfied with rainwater - very present in the North, as we all know! It is a biodegradable fibre, which is easily dyed using natural dyes, avoiding the creation of micro-plastic linked to the destruction and use of artificial fibres or dyed using non-natural dyes. Linen production is good for the soil, the fields are carbon sinks, and each part of the fibre is distributed between different uses - technical insulation or home textiles for example. Because linen is extremely durable, making it one of the noblest materials. We can still find embroidered Victorian household linens dating from the 1800s in perfect condition!
Linen is therefore a beautiful and good fiber that will indeed be the future of the textile industry. Its properties in terms of robustness and the few negative externalities on the environment make it one of the allies of the sector. The current enthusiasm for linen, whether due to its raw and aesthetic appearance or its durability, allows us to think of a long-term industry, more meticulous and sustainable. And for the little final note, we remind you that if linen is easy to crease, it is also easy to iron. Linen would rather have been a victim of the cyclical rhythms of fashion than of its so-called bad reputation...