Linen is gradually making its way into every area of “responsible” textiles. These days, it is impossible to open the page of a conscientious fashion brand without coming across a growing number of linen-based products. This “miracle” fibre is said to be a remedy for the consumption of non-natural fibres; it is said to be ecological, biodegradable and hard-wearing for fabrics. Yet many consumers still find it difficult to take the step of buying a linen piece, let alone one in 100%!
So is linen a victim of its reputation?
Linen was long associated with resort wear, those jacket-and-trouser ensembles so characteristic of holidays in the sun. Its properties, particularly in terms of thermoregulation, have been recognised for centuries, making it one of the preferred textiles in hot weather, but also in cold conditions and changing weather – let us remember that Egyptian mummies were wrapped in linen, allowing us to find bodies preserved centuries later. Yet while linen was widely used until the end of the 20th century, recent decades have neglected it in favour of other newly created fibres – artificial fibres in particular. It was considered too prone to creasing, somewhat old-fashioned and therefore difficult to wear. In recent years, however, linen seems to have regained its standing and made a welcome return. Designer Simon Porte-Jacquemus even made it the central material of his autumn-winter 2020 show, reminding us that linen’s thermoregulatory properties also apply in cold weather. Collections from brands attentive to the impact of their production are therefore increasingly returning to linen. This natural fibre is used for its strength and is often blended with other fibres such as cotton. There has also been an increase in the number of undyed 100% pieces, allowing the fibre’s natural colour to shine through.
Linen is making a comeback, and that is all to the good. This natural fibre has many advantages. Its production, led by France alongside Belgium (nearby, then!), requires no artificial irrigation, relying solely on rainwater – plentiful in the North, as we all know! It is a biodegradable fibre that dyes easily with natural dyes, avoiding the creation of microplastics linked to the destruction and use of artificial fibres or fibres dyed with non-natural dyes. Linen production is good for the soil, fields act as carbon sinks, and every part of the fibre is distributed among different uses – technical insulation or household textiles, for example. Linen is also exceptionally durable, making it one of the noblest materials. Even today, Victorian embroidered household linens dating from the 1800s can still be found in perfect condition!
Linen is therefore a fine, reliable fibre that will indeed shape the future of the textile industry. Its strength and the limited negative externalities it has on the environment make it one of the sector’s allies. The current enthusiasm for linen, whether due to its raw, aesthetic appearance or its durability, makes it possible to envisage a long-term industry that is more exacting and sustainable. And as a final note, it is worth remembering that while linen creases easily, it is also easy to iron. Linen has perhaps been more a victim of fashion’s cyclical rhythms than of its so-called poor reputation...
