Jeans, chinos and shirts are among the most iconic cornerstones of the masculine wardrobe. While most men own several of each, pairing them seamlessly is not always straightforward. In this article, we look at the two favourite trousers of the modern man and share our guidance on styling them with shirts in sartorial harmony.
Jeans and 150 years of heritage
An undisputed global icon, jeans as we know them were born in the United States in 1873. That year, tailor Jacob Davis—seeking the ideal workwear garment for lumberjacks, miners, and gold prospectors—teamed up with merchant Levi Strauss to create denim canvas trousers reinforced with rivets at the pockets. This twill-woven fabric, produced in Europe since the 16th and 17th centuries, was crafted from cotton-linen in Genoa and wool-silk in Nîmes. The Anglicisation of the Italian city gave us “jean”, while that of the French city gave us “denim”. Across the Atlantic, the 100% cotton version took hold, renowned for its robustness and celebrated for the myriad shades of blue achieved through indigo dyeing.
In 150 years of history, jeans have acquired a fine patina without showing a single wrinkle, regularly vying with the T-shirt for the title of the world’s most popular garment. A cornerstone of any true wardrobe, we have developed our own winning trio, faithful to denim heritage and to the core values of Hast.
Paying tribute to vintage denim, we first offer raw jeans crafted from a heavy 15oz selvedge weave. Woven from 100% organic cotton by the renowned Italian mill Candiani, they will fade beautifully over time to reveal magnificent turquoise undertones.
Crafted in Portugal with distinct seventies inspiration, our 100% cotton washed jeans were designed as the ultimate versatile denim. Lighter than their raw counterpart (12 oz), they are also softer and will effortlessly complement any look.
Bolder yet equally celebrated, our ecru five-pocket trousers also hail from Portugal. Crafted from organic cotton twill woven by Candiani, they evoke the dolce vita and the elegance of Riviera style: perfect for brightening up your outfits across all four seasons.
Chinos: the other legend
Like any good myth, the origins of the chino are shrouded in history.
For some, the origins lie in India, during the British colonial presence in the 19th century. There, officer Sir Harry Lumsden, finding his comrades’ uniforms too warm and conspicuous, proposed adopting lighter attire in natural tones. For the lower half, wool trousers gave way to sand-coloured cotton “khakis”—a Hindi word translating to “dust-coloured” or “soil-coloured”. To this day, the term is used interchangeably with chino.
Others look to the Philippines for the birthplace of the chino. During the Spanish-American War of 1898, soldiers reportedly set aside their heavy wool trousers in favour of lighter garments crafted from Chinese fabrics. With “chino” literally meaning “Chinese” in Spanish, the origin of the term is plain to see.
One thing is certain: chinos were designed for utilitarian needs before evolving into the casual staple we know today. As is often the case, their widespread adoption followed returning soldiers who continued to wear them back home from overseas deployment. In the United States, their embrace by students at prestigious Ivy League universities and subsequent presence on silver-screen icons sealed their status as a timeless global classic that has never fallen out of favour.
At Hast, we have created two versions, honouring sartorial tradition while answering contemporary demands:
- For autumn and winter, we have created trousers in 260g/m² cotton gabardine, dense and substantial enough to keep you stylishly warm. Subtly tailored, their cut is more contemporary than that of their predecessors, leaving behind their military origins for a more refined everyday appeal. With six colours to choose from, you are sure to find the pair that flatters your silhouette.
- For spring and summer, we recommend a 76% cotton and 24% linen blend. Woven in a lightweight 185g/m² twill, our summer chinos share the same cut as their winter counterparts, while offering a crisp, dry hand feel thanks to the linen. Woven in France and tailored in Portugal, they come in three radiant shades designed to brighten the warmer months.
The right shirt for the right trousers
Owing to their texture, colour, and resolutely workwear origins, jeans are often considered a casual staple. Smoother, more understated, and offering a broader colour palette, chinos claim a more polished status. Naturally, shirts follow suit: the more relaxed styles pair best with denim, while dressier options naturally complement khakis.
With jeans, we therefore recommend casual-fitting shirts that are shorter and straight-cut; crafted from characterful fabrics such as Oxford, twill, denim, or chambray; finished with a button-down collar and perhaps patterned designs.
With chinos, it is best to opt for dressier styles, crafted from smooth, crisp fabrics like poplin. Likewise, it feels more natural to tuck your shirt into chinos than into jeans, allowing you to choose shirts with a classic fit or even a tailored cut, which is longer and more elegant. Here, classic refinement is the aim, particularly by opting for traditional necklines such as the point collar or the semi-cutaway.
Which pairing for which occasion?
Everyday essentials and models of versatility, jeans and chinos nonetheless serve different purposes. Sharp and characterful, the former is undeniably bolder than the latter, which is more understated and restrained. Think Dean for the first, and Bogart for the second, if you will.
Both naturally belong in the office, but we particularly recommend jeans for after-work drinks (paired with a striped shirt worn open over a T-shirt), whereas chinos are ideal for more formal occasions (with a premium shirt, a suit jacket, and a pair of loafers).
Final words
Pillars of the masculine wardrobe, jeans and chinos are to trousers what T-shirts and polo shirts are to base layers. Versatile and adaptable, each brings distinct qualities to the modern gentleman’s everyday life: texture and universality on one hand, simplicity and refinement on the other.
Gentlemen, place your bets.