The French counterpart to American denim, moleskin is a confidential fabric little known to the general public. Unlike its North American counterpart, it never fully broke away from the workwear wardrobe, yet it has stood by men for centuries.
For us, the love of tailoring and fine fabrics go hand in hand, so it felt natural to reawaken this sleeping beauty, an understated champion of French textile heritage.
Crafted entirely from moleskin, we invite you to (re)discover three work jackets, and with them a fabric as humble as it is remarkable.
A historic staple of French working life
If moleskin is to French workers what denim is to their counterparts across the Atlantic, it is above all thanks to its unique properties. Woven in an extremely dense and tight satin weave, this fabric proves to be warm, supple, insulating, and virtually indestructible.
Created through an irregular interlacing of warp and weft threads, the satin weave is smooth and lustrous, with no visible right or wrong side. More uniform than plain weave or twill, it is also less prone to creasing.
Since its invention in the 17th century, it has been treated in various ways: glazed with varnish, sheared to emulate the fineness of velvet, or brushed for a soft, fuzzy texture. Indeed, it is this softness that gave it its name, moleskin literally meaning the skin of a mole.
First used as book covers and later as lining, it stepped onto the textile stage at the end of the 18th century alongside the Industrial Revolution.
Thick and compact, moleskin once shielded foundry and steel mill workers, who were heavily exposed to sparks and flying debris. Wind, rain, wear, flames, abrasion, molten metal, steam: it resisted everything thanks to its density and natural water-repellency, quickly making it the go-to fabric for manual labourers.
A technical fabric ahead of its time, it caught the eye of Adolphe Lafont, a visionary entrepreneur and founder of France’s first workwear brand. In the early 20th century, he set out to create garments tailored to each trade, assigning a dedicated colour to each profession. For the first time, moleskin appeared in white for painters, black for carpenters, and blue for locomotive mechanics (the famed French "bleu de chauffe").
Hast and revisited moleskin
A relatively heavy fabric woven tightly in an impenetrable satin weave, moleskin has accompanied workers for decades with unwavering reliability. An iron fist in a velvet glove, it is both rugged and soft, making it as dependable as it is comfortable to wear.
Loath to see it confined to workwear, we felt it was essential to bring this remarkable fabric into our collection. Both for its properties and its unique hand feel, we believed moleskin deserved pride of place on our rails (and in your wardrobe), which is why we used it to craft these three jackets:
- If you have followed Hast for over a year, you will probably recognise the first one. From our Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, our brown moleskin work jacket features an elegant suede-like look with its 100% cotton satin weave. Woven and finished by a prestigious Italian mill, it was sheared using traditional techniques to achieve an authentic velvety finish reminiscent of suede. A 100% natural, durable fabric that catches the light beautifully.
- Designed for the Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, the other two are entirely new. Taking greater liberties with tradition, we developed a brushed moleskin fabric. Looking closely, you will notice our green and navy work jackets are softer and fuzzier than their camel counterpart. Crafted from a heavier fabric (316 g/m² versus 250 g/m²), these two new styles adopt a more elegant tone, boasting a delightfully retro charm.
While moleskin is the common thread across these three pieces—giving you a subtle way to stand out—there is a slight difference in tone between the first and the other two. The first is more traditional, directly aligned with vintage work jackets, while the latter two focus less on heritage and more on creativity.
Beyond this variation—which lets you cultivate a workwear style or elevate a smart casual outfit—you will find on each piece all those details that make all the difference: an ultra-versatile regular fit, horn-effect buttons, patch pockets with flaps, internal pockets, a thoughtfully proportioned collar, buttoned cuffs, and refined finishes.
Stand out with our moleskin work jackets
As you may well know, the work jacket is one of the signature pieces of the Hast wardrobe. After the shirt, it quickly captured our attention, allowing us to build deep expertise over the years. In parallel, it has inspired many across the industry, becoming a true staple of men’s style.
In this light, our moleskin work jackets present themselves as a balanced blend of exacting standards and character. On one hand, their design and our craftsmanship promise versatility and durability; on the other, the distinctiveness and refinement of the fabric ensure you stand apart.
As a final—and by no means minor—strength, the moleskin work jacket masters the coveted art of balance. Whatever outfit you choose to pair it with, it will enhance its presence, elevate its look, or temper its boldness.
Luminous and effortless to wear, it plays on its sharp lines and workwear heritage to complement casual outfits, tailored suits, formal pieces, and bolder combinations alike.
Particularly suited to autumn and winter, this statement piece enables striking layered looks. By playing with colours and textures, you will unlock its full potential and soon find it hard to do without.
A note on care
Sturdy as it may be, moleskin is nonetheless a refined fabric that does not take well to machine washing. To maximise its lifespan, we recommend taking it to the dry cleaner once a year for a dry clean that will restore its full lustre.
Between wears, hanging it on a wide-shouldered wooden hanger is strongly advised, as is airing it for at least an hour in the open air.
