Charlotte Daudré-Vignier (Charlie) is the founder and designer of the young upcycling brand Carbone 14 (carbon 14 is present in all living organisms, including linen, wool and silk. In particular, it makes it possible to date garments). Having studied at IFM, she champions a vision of fashion that she cannot separate from its sustainable dimension. Reworked vintage pieces in the spirit of recycling (using old materials to create new ones), reclaiming and repairing damaged pieces: for Charlie, quality clothing must, and deserves to, last.
In collaboration with Hast, Charlie shares her tips for caring for clothes through several video tutorials. The purpose of this collaboration is to express our shared motivations: helping move the fashion world towards better days, with greater respect for the planet and workers, while also restoring the value of age-old craftsmanship that is sometimes too quickly forgotten. Meet Charlie.
When did you start taking an interest in textiles?
I became interested in textiles at a very early age because my mother did a lot of sewing. At 6, I made my first creation: a doll’s dress. That was when a great love story between fabric and me began. In fact, it was fabric that caught my eye more than clothing itself.
Tell us a little about your background and how working with Hast makes sense in light of your understanding of fashion?
At first, I hesitated to enter the fashion industry, which frightened me a little. So I began working in a very different field: cybersecurity, in Spain, where I grew up. I gave all my colleagues a makeover! I thought there might be something in it, and I quickly joined the Institut Français de la Mode. That is where I truly discovered the sustainable and ethical side of things. I had already worked on these themes, but I had not realised the scale of the problem in fashion and all the excesses in terms of pollution and social abuse.
Soon afterwards, I created my first brand, which was a little unfocused. Through encounters and learning, the adventure really began with Carbone 14, a project that was more mature in my view. I was keen to combine design and environmental responsibility, with the idea of returning to old values: reclaiming materials, bespoke draping, small businesses and so on. I have a taste for one-off pieces, statement pieces made from beautiful materials.
I had been drawn to developing a project connected with garment repair for some time, so it worked out perfectly when we discussed it with Hast. I like the brand because it makes simple yet high-quality clothes, with beautiful fabrics and a lovely drape. I think we share the same values when it comes to longevity and an appreciation of fine clothing.
What is your view of the fashion world and its current evolution?
Departments dedicated to sustainability are not really integrated into fashion houses, which is a shame because the measures taken often lack consistency. It is easy to communicate, but production has to follow through.
If there is a genuine desire to move in the right direction, it is achievable in 2021. It is more expensive, certainly, but there really are solutions. In my view, not trying to be environmentally responsible today is a sign of bad faith. I am rather optimistic when I see that the causes we are fighting for at the moment are coming together: feminism, social rights, sustainable development. There is real energy, a positive anger that allows us to question the way we operate.
As for my broader vision of fashion, I feel that we are increasingly letting the product speak for itself. I like the idea of showing images without falling into excessive storytelling. There is always a story behind a garment, and even more so with upcycling. You transform an object that has already been worn; you tell the story of the textile artisan who made it, of the person who kept it. I like the idea of showing raw imagery, not telling things too much, but rather suggesting them.
How did you come up with the idea of talking about garment care? It is quite different from what traditional « designers » offer.
It is something I have done since I was very young. My family always asked me for tips on removing stains, and I wrote everything down in a notebook. Recently, after talking about it with people around me, I realised there was a real need.
In truth, I hesitated for a long time before doing it. Why? Because there are already tons and tons of pages about it on the internet. It is a bit has-been, and most of the time, people explain how to do it but do not show you. For someone who is not very handy, it is not always easy to follow. With a three-minute video "tutorial" format, it is very easy to explain how to remove a stain or sew a button back on. Repairing then seems less out of reach, and we can choose that option rather than buying yet another garment that may mean less to us!
Can you be sustainable and profitable?
It is an interesting but also taboo question. I think so, but it all depends on what we mean by profitable. If you want a 100% margin, Carbone 14 is not where you will find it. That is what I explain to my clients. When I sell a coat in pure virgin wool for 250 euros, it is because I have to do a great deal of work beforehand: find the wool and the right supplier, travel, inspect the fabric, check the material, make the pattern.
I also do the making, pattern cutting, fittings and so on, all in Paris. Everything is therefore on a different scale. When a dress from a fast-fashion brand is made in 10.000 pieces, the pattern does not actually cost very much…
In my view, if you want to make quality, like the milliners of the time, you can be profitable, but you need to know what kind of profitability you want. Quality cannot be neglected and must return to the heart of creation. And it is when you take your time that things are well made!