col de chemise

Which shirt collar should you choose?

6 min read

There are details that change everything. A discreet seam, a fabric that develops a patina, the perfect drape of a jacket… and above all, a shirt collar. At Hast, we believe that this small piece of fabric is a great ambassador. It tells a story of style, craftsmanship and often even character. Since 2012, our menswear wardrobe has been built around exacting, durable pieces, so it was time to bring collars back into the spotlight.


Types of shirt collars

Semi-cutaway collar

The semi-cutaway collar , a Hast signature, stands out for its slightly wider opening, bringing natural elegance without overdoing it. It works equally well with a formal outfit and tie or a more casual look. Subtle yet distinctive, it is perfect for those seeking a touch of character in their everyday style.


Semi-cutaway collar

Officer colonel

The band collar is making a strong comeback with its understated, elegant design. Without collar points, it offers a clean look that needs no tie. Easy to wear, it adds a contemporary, refined touch to your outfits. A perfect choice for those who favour simplicity without compromising on style.

Officer colonel

Button-down collar

The button-down collar is the ideal option for those looking for a more practical collar suited to everyday wear. It originates from the polo shirt. It keeps the collar points in place with discreet small buttons, making it perfect for casual outfits. Discover our collection of button-down collars for a look that is both smart and practical.

Button-down collar

Point collar

A classic among classics, the point collar embodies the perfect balance of elegance and restraint. With its closely set points and moderate opening, it suits every situation: a formal suit or casual jacket, with or without a tie. Inherited from Parisian chic, it endures through the ages without ever losing its appeal.

Point collar

English collar

The English collar , or Tab Collar, is a wider version of the classic collar. Very elegant, it is often worn with suits or dress shirts. This collar is designed to showcase ties and is perfectly suited to formal occasions such as weddings or smart evenings.

English collar

Mao collar

The Mao collar , without collar points, offers a more casual, contemporary style. It is perfect for less formal occasions and works well with casual shirts. It is an ideal choice for a minimalist, modern look, offering a clean silhouette without sacrificing comfort.

Shirt with Mao collar

Spread collar

The spread collar is recognisable by its wide, open points, which add a modern, elegant touch. It particularly flatters narrow faces and slender builds, enhancing the line of the neck. Easy to wear with a wide-knotted tie or open for a smart-casual style, it is equally suited to professional settings and formal occasions. Discover our selection of wide shirt collars to refine your outfits.

Spread collar

Choosing a shirt collar to suit your build

Round face

If you have a round face, collars such as the English or Italian collar, with their longer points and wider opening, are perfect for visually lengthening the face. They bring welcome verticality that balances the curves of the face. Avoid collars that are too small or very close-fitting, which could accentuate roundness. The semi-cutaway collar, with its interte shape, is also an excellent choice for these builds.

Square face

Square faces, with their pronounced angles, benefit from being softened by collars with gentle points, such as the point collar or button-down collar. These collars help soften the rigidity of the features while retaining an elegant, professional appearance. They are particularly suited to classic-fit shirts or slightly fitted , bringing natural balance to the overall silhouette.

Oval face

An oval face is considered the most balanced shape, giving you great freedom when choosing collars. You can opt for a semi-cutaway, classic, Italian or even Mao collar, depending on your preferences and the occasion. The important thing is to choose a collar that works harmoniously with the outfit and accessories you have chosen.

Long face

If you have a long face, choose collars with narrower or closer-set points, such as the button-down collar or point collar. This balances the length of your face and creates a more proportionate appearance. Avoid very open collars such as the spread collar, which accentuate the natural length of the face.


Shirt collars for different occasions

Office outfit

For a classic office outfit, opt for a semi-cutaway collar or a point collar. These collars offer understated elegance, perfectly suited to a professional setting. They work equally well with a tie or a bow tie for a more formal look. Choose shirts in cotton or poplin, fabrics that ensure comfort, easy care and an impeccable appearance throughout the day.

Sky blue cotton and linen shirt

Formal evenings

For a formal evening or a wedding, a spread collar or point collar is an excellent choice. Worn with a white shirt , these collars add presence to your look. You can also choose more formal fabrics such as twill or poplin for a refined appearance.

Ecru cotton striped shirt with band collar

Formal outfits

For casual occasions, the button-down, band or Mao collar is the natural choice. These collars are less formal and allow for a more relaxed look while remaining polished. They are particularly suited to shirts in softer-textured cotton, or even linen during warmer seasons. Paired with jeans or chinos, these collars bring an effortlessly elegant touch to everyday wear.

White linen shirt with button-down collar

Pairing a shirt collar with accessories

Pairing your collar with a tie

A tie is an essential accessory for many formal occasions. Choose a sufficiently open collar, such as a point collar or semi-cutaway collar, to showcase your tie. Make sure the width of the tie matches the width of the collar for a harmonious look. 

Shirt with semi-cutaway collar

Pairing your collar with a bow tie

A bow tie is best worn with wider collars, such as an English collar or a spread collar. These collars create a visual contrast with the bow tie, drawing attention to it. For a more original touch, a Mao collar can also be an interesting option, particularly for less formal occasions.

Wing Collar

Here are the common mistakes to avoid

Choosing a collar disproportionate to your build

The most common mistake is choosing a collar that does not suit the shape of your face. A collar that is too open on a long face, or a very narrow collar on a round face, can create a visual imbalance and detract from natural elegance. Always take the time to measure your neck and try different shapes to find the one that flatters you best.

Ignoring the context and occasion

The choice of collar largely depends on the occasion. Make sure the collar you choose is appropriate to the context, whether it is a work meeting, a wedding or a casual evening. A semi-cutaway collar can be a good compromise for a look that is both smart and versatile.

Poor pairing with accessories

A poor pairing of the collar with accessories such as a tie or bow tie is also a common mistake. A collar that is too small will not flatter a wide tie, while a very open collar may look unbalanced with a small bow tie. These details may seem minor, but they make all the difference to a successful elegant outfit.

Shirt with tie

To ensure the longevity and impeccable appearance of your shirts and their collars, do not hesitate to consult our advice on caring for your clothes and learn how to iron a shirt easily and effectively. You can also explore our full range of white shirts, fitted shirts and classic-fit shirts, as well as the variety of collars available, to find the perfect shirt for your build and style.