Devenez incollable sur les tissus !

Become an expert on fabrics!

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Almost 2 months of confinement later... you have listened to all the Spotify playlists, binged all the films and series from Netflix and Canal+ combined, read all the great classics of French, English and American literature twice...

What if you became an expert in shirt fabrics? Martina, our stylist, explains the particularity of each weave, and gives you some advice on how to choose them.

Poplin

Poplin is the emblematic material of the formal shirt. Originating from the papal city of Avignon, this fabric was known as Papeline and was used to make the clothes of the popes. Its tight, fine and light weave makes it a very pleasant shirt to wear every day. Cotton threads (double twisted at Hast) benefit from a dense and smooth weave: the warp and weft threads pass under each other in an alternating and regular manner, without drawing particular patterns.

If poplin is mainly found on formal shirts, it can be used for more casual models, with a slightly thicker thread which provides a more pronounced casual aspect.

What do we wear it with? With almost everything, since it is a weave which has the advantage of being discreet. Everything will depend on your choice (plain, patterned?) You can also opt for the combo of white poplin shirt + jeans or blue striped shirt + camel chinos. And obviously, poplin is recommended for wearing a suit!

When do we wear it? In all seasons.

Wire to wire

Very close to poplin, yarn has a quite different appearance from the latter, thanks to a colored warp thread and a weft thread that is always white. These become more visible, and we thus obtain a very subtle material effect.

Fil à fil is widely used in formal collections, less so for casual models. But there is a well-known variation of fil à fil: it is chambray (I'll tell you about it a little further on).

What do we wear it with? The thread by thread retains a certain discretion, its pattern is only discovered when one approaches the fabric. You can therefore wear it like poplin, with all types of materials: linen, denim, fresh wool in summer; flannel, thick wool in winter.

When do we wear it? In all seasons.

The Oxford

Oxford is a slightly thicker fabric, with a more textured appearance, and also easier to maintain than poplin. This fabric is said to have been named after the famous English town, where it was created by a Flemish weaver in the 17th century. The basket weave composed of warp and weft threads (generally different colors and both doubled), gives the fabric a certain density and accentuates the braiding effect forming a tiny quadrature

The fineness of the threads used will vary the use of this fabric, being suitable for both formal and casual wear. It should come as no surprise that the Oxford of a formal shirt is, in terms of appearance, very different from that of a casual shirt. In my opinion, this is one of the best choices for a first shirt.

What do we wear it with? Whether for a formal or casual style, the Oxford is truly one of the most versatile weaves you can have in your wardrobe (with pinpoint, I'm coming there too). We can opt for very smooth textures (like a light woolen cloth) or, on the contrary, for textures with more rough edges (flannel or a denim effect). You see that it's not very difficult at the moment, it's mainly a question of taste! ;)

When do we wear it? In all seasons.

The pinpoint

In plain weave, pinpoint is the perfect compromise between Oxford and poplin (to put it simply, it is between the two: note to those who did not want to choose!). Strong and slightly textured, light yet durable…

At Hast, you will currently only find pinpoint on our premium easy care range. We chose this weave from Albini, which has the advantage of creasing less and saving you a lot of time when ironing.

What do we wear it with? Once again, you have the choice, it is a weave quite close to poplin and Oxford. It will be perfectly suited to a formal outfit, with a wool jacket and pants for example.

When do we wear it? In all seasons.

The twill

Due to its twill weave (the same as denim), twill is a very easy fabric to iron (this is a significant plus). We recognize it by its slanted stripes: the result of a technique consisting of gradually shifting the weft thread and the warp thread.

Its particular pattern and silky effect makes it more suitable for formal wear, just like the chevron (although again, it depends on the thread used). Usually, we use a double-wound cotton thread of a certain fineness for our formal shirts, but you may also find a more robust twill weave in our flannel shirts for example.

What do we wear it with? Twill as we imagine it is often used for formal shirts. It has a more sophisticated look than the oxford or pinpoint, so we will favor elegant outfits, such as a 3-piece suit and a tie . But you can also make it more casual, with a Neapolitan shoulder jacket and chinos .

When do we wear it? Twill has a slightly fluffy side so is best suited for mid-season and winter.

The chevron

Similar to twill and denim, herringbone is one of the easiest weaves to recognize thanks to its zig zag pattern (at least one you can remember easily). It is generally relatively “thick” and used for formal shirts. Fun fact, the chevron is called "herringbone" by the English, in reference to its resemblance to the bones of the herring.

We rarely see casual chevron shirts, more often on blazers or even jackets. Returning the chevron to its place in the casual men's wardrobe, on shirts, is one of my desires for winter, so just a little more patience ;)

What do we wear it with? Same advice as for twill, except that the chevron has an even more present pattern, so we favor neutral pieces if you haven't yet mastered your style! With a woolen cloth suit, it's perfect.

When do we wear it? Mid-season and winter.

The dobby

Dobby is one of those fabrics that we often recognize without knowing how to name it. Plain weave, it has a particular look and feel, with a raised pattern that is often called "honeycomb". This weave has a certain natural elasticity, which makes it very comfortable.

For our part, we currently only offer a classic version of the dobby, in white double-twisted cotton. Formal, of course. The dobby has this “connoisseur” side, while being very easy to adopt for those who are just starting out. In my opinion, it's an Oxford with more character.

What do we wear it with? You can play on its textured side in two ways: by contrast, with smoother materials, or in reinforcement, with equally textured fabrics like a raw denim jacket or a twill work jacket .

When do we wear it? In all seasons.

Denim

First used for the manufacture of jeans, denim has diversified over the years to produce beautiful shirts with a workwear feel. Initially dyed with indigo (the famous blue jeans), this fabric is built on a twill weave and offers real strength, as well as a wash suitable for everyone's use.

At Hast, denim fabrics come exclusively from Italy (Albiate) or Japan (Maruwa or Kuwamura). They are particularly suitable for a casual, comfortable outfit.

What do we wear it with? Do we really need to answer this question? Denim goes with EVERYTHING (except perhaps the denim itself, it all depends on the choice…).

When do we wear it? Denim is a fairly thick fabric, therefore more suitable for mid-season and winter. Or in an overshirt in the summer.

Chambray

To put it simply, chambray is the casual variation of thread-to-fil, plain weave. Note, however, an important difference with the latter: of "square" construction, the fabric has the same number of warp and weft threads. Note also that the weft thread is always ecru and the warp thread is often dyed with indigo. The appearance of chambray is immediately recognizable by its very particular texture, subtly mottled and very light and by its typical color reminiscent of faded jeans.

Note that there are colored variants of the classic blue of chambray, such as our summer Japanese rust and green shirts.

What do we wear it with? Chambray has a very casual spirit, so we favor pieces from the same family so as not to take any risks; jeans, chinos, work jacket... We can also take inspiration from the Italian style which perfectly combines chambray with a more sophisticated, sartorial style!

When do we wear it? The lightness of chambray is particularly appreciated in spring and summer.

The seersucker

If you had to choose just one fabric that alone represents sunny days, it's seersucker . Its name comes from the Persian term “shir-o-shakar” which means “milk and sugar”, echoing the double texture of seersucker, obtained thanks to its stripes: one part soft and smooth like milk and another slightly wrinkled, “cracked” reminiscent of sugar.

The stripes of this fabric (plain weave) and its very particular embossed appearance have a much more essential function than pure aesthetics. By playing on the relief, one stripe in front, another in the back, the fabric becomes very airy, and remains away from the skin, thus greatly facilitating air circulation and therefore heat dissipation.

What do we wear it with? Seersucker is necessarily made of stripes and at least textured (if they are tone-on-tone). It is a strong piece, which is sufficient in itself. So we take it easy on the rest and prefer jeans or chinos and a plain jacket.

When do we wear it? Spring, summer, Indian summer. Especially when there is linen, like our model from Emanuel Lang.

The selvedge

Selvedge is not a fabric strictly speaking, since it can be denim (the famous and coveted "selvedge denim") as well as another fabric, as is the case for our model in chambray. Selvedge is in fact a weaving technique, which ensures a certain quality of canvas since an old (and therefore slower) loom is used to do this, which preserves all the qualities of the fiber. The word is a contraction of the English “Self Edge”, short for “Self-finished edge”, in French “bord fini”. It is a uniform finish of a fabric at its end aimed at preventing it from fraying, it is therefore reinforced and often forms a colored border.

How do you recognize selvedge? By its colored border, generally red and white or blue and white (but it can also be of several colors!)

What do we wear it with? It depends on the fabric, actually. In the case of our Japanese selvedge chambray, wear it like… a chambray.

When do we wear it? It depends on the material (chambray, denim, etc.)

Flannel

Originally made of carded wool and reserved for suits, flannel has adapted well to making shirts, replacing wool with combed cotton. Flannel has a fluffy, very soft appearance, and is usually quite thick. From the beginning of the 20th century, it was used for clothing worn in summer, by the sea or for sports... relaxation!

With a flannel shirt, we are totally in the casual style, more or less chic. The thickness of the material can make it a shirt or an overshirt, with a t-shirt .

What do we wear it with? Flannel is a fabric with a particular texture, due to its pleasant softness. I therefore recommend wearing it with “raw” materials like denim or smooth like cotton twill. We avoid pants of the same material, which will tend to weigh down the outfit.

When do we wear it? The micro-piles of a flannel shirt will retain body heat so... Only when you need to warm up! Happiness.

Velvet

With its fluffy appearance and its manufacturing technique, velvet is a material in its own right, often adored or on the contrary neglected. An emblematic fabric of nobility and royalty since the Renaissance, popularized during the Industrial Revolution and particularly appreciated by gentlemen farmers, velvet is both vintage and timeless. Construction side: the tack may vary depending on the type of velvet. For our shirts, however, we mainly work with plain tack velvet.

Velvet is, just like flannel, a really casual material, which we do not recommend for wearing a suit (even if we encourage experimentation!)

What do we wear it with? Velvet being a material with already a lot of character, we will happily turn to neutral materials, such as denim, cotton jersey, or wool. Since velvet has this “textured” and matte appearance, it goes wonderfully with more “smooth” materials, by contrast.

When do we wear it? In winter and whenever you need comfort.

You now know our fabrics. But do you know your size? If you've never taken the time to take your measurements correctly, now is the time to do so. Don't put off until tomorrow: take advantage of this special moment to take action and finally discover which size suits you best thanks to our complete size guide .

And if you need further details, write to us on contact@hast.fr!

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