A curiosity among curiosities, the tie has accompanied men for centuries without any apparent purpose. It does not keep one warm, is not particularly practical, and protects against nothing but draughts; and it is certainly not for comfort that gentlemen tie it tirelessly. A stylistic incongruity if ever there was one, it stands as the only wardrobe accessory displayed for its own sake, valued exclusively for its aesthetic power. Like it or not, a piece of cloth made indispensable by its superfluity deserved this guide.
Daughter of the jabot and granddaughter of the ruff
While its history may be linked to the ancient Chinese Empire or the Roman focalium, the roots of the modern tie appear to date back to the 17th century. At the time, what was still only a scarf appeared around the necks of Croatian hussars mobilised by Louis XIII to support his troops during the Thirty Years’ War.
In battle, the latter distinguished themselves through their bravery, earning them the honours of Louis XIV upon his accession to the throne. In 1667, he gathered the remaining forces to form a light cavalry regiment, which he named the Royal-Cravates (a corruption of the word “Croat”). An aesthete as much as a strategist, the Sun King took the opportunity to adopt his cavalrymen’s strip of cloth himself. A few years later, he even created the role of cravatier, a squire attached to the “Grand Master of the Wardrobe”. His role? To choose and adjust the monarch’s tie. A rather stressful job, if you ask us.
Supple, light and delicate, it gradually replaced the lace jabot at Court, which had itself supplanted the imposing and uncomfortable ruff a little earlier. A strip of cotton and/or linen, generally adorned with coloured ribbons, it was then tied around the neck, leaving two ends hanging on either side.
Over time, the way of tying this piece of cloth evolved so much that a certain Baron Émile de l’Empesé (pen name of serial writer Émile Marco de Saint-Hilaire) published in 1827 his “Art of Wearing One’s Tie in All Known and Commonly Used Ways, Taught and Demonstrated in 16 Lessons”.
This anthology listed 32 different knots, only a handful of which remain today. And for good reason: the sophistication (and complexity) of period knots gradually gave way to the “regatta”, which is truly the ancestor of those we know today. Borrowed from the world of sport and valued for its restraint and ease of execution, it has continued to gain ground since the mid-19th century, becoming the absolute contemporary reference.
How Hast ties are made
A historic cradle of silk that became the capital of the tie, Lombardy has supported the evolution of this accessory that is not quite an accessory in order to modernise its practices while preserving centuries-old craftsmanship. Embracing industrialisation without abandoning its rich artisanal heritage, the Como region (in Italy) has thus established itself as one of the most expert in tailoring, which is why we chose to have ours made there.
Unsurprisingly, its artisans have mastered to perfection the two main manufacturing processes that coexist today: assembly and folding.
Assembly, first of all, is the simplest and most widespread method on the market. Most Hast ties are made using this method, which consists of enclosing an interlining between an outer fabric (the visible side) and a lining (the reverse side). Also known as “three-fold ties”, they are supple and unadorned, ideal for finishing off your most formal outfits.
Folding, meanwhile, is a more traditional technique that makes it possible to create a tie from a single piece of fabric. There is no interlining in this case, since folding the cloth back on itself gives it its structure and body. More material-intensive, more delicate and most often done by hand, this process becomes more expensive and meticulous with every fold: 5, 7 or even 9 if you are prepared to spend several hundred euros on a tie. At Hast, we stopped at 5 folds to create our anniversary tie for our 10th anniversary, which seems more than enough to add a touch of sophistication without going overboard.
Ties that hold their shape
While a tie may resemble a simple strip of cloth tied around the neck, its history shows us just how much its shape has changed over time. If it has seemed stable for a century, this is partly thanks to a certain Jesse Langsdorf, a New York manufacturer who filed a patent in 1923 simply entitled “Necktie”, now considered the birth certificate of the modern pointed tie.
On the market as in our wardrobe, this model largely predominates and remains both the most common and the most universally accepted (particularly in professional settings). Despite more or less successful variations – very wide in the 1970s and very narrow in the 2000s – the average width of ties tends to settle around 6 to 8 cm. In any case, these are the proportions we have chosen at Hast, considering them the most harmonious and balanced.
That said, one irrepressible style still resists the hegemony of its counterpart, and it is the square-ended tie. More textured and generally knitted, it features a pearled texture that evokes a rebellious spirit more than decorum. Historically associated with the working classes, who knitted them at home to appropriate the codes of a world where a man’s worth was measured by that of his tie, it took on its defiant character around the necks of Ivy League students and then English mods. More modern and less formal than the “Langsdorf”, the square-ended tie is therefore an excellent alternative for those wishing to enter this world through a less intimidating, though no less elegant, door than that of classic tie-making.
Ties full of colour (or not)
Other elements that can be played with to place a tie – and an outfit – in one register or another: colours and patterns.
While the plain dark tie reigned supreme over most formal dress codes, the growing informality of conventions has indeed reshuffled the deck in recent decades. Once constrained, it is now freeing itself from the strictures of etiquette to conquer new territories of expression.
At Hast, it seemed important to quench this thirst for freedom, as evidenced by the rich chromatic palette we have opened up to it. Alongside the classic dark shades, you will find beautiful shades of red, green and blue, all ready to shine where their forebears stood out through restraint.
Above all, patterns are making a notable comeback, reflecting a desire to free an accessory laden with symbolism from its inhibitions. From the subtlest polka dots to the boldest flowers , via a tone-on-tone Prince of Wales check or a tribute to club stripes, we have given them pride of place in our collections, just for you.
Art and material
There is no need to hide it: the material of a tie shapes almost its entire character. Because it determines how it will be worked and catch the light, it should be chosen with the greatest care according to the desired result.
At Hast, these are the ones that won us over:
- essential silk : a natural material intimately linked to fashion accessories, silk is easily recognised by its lustrous, satin-like appearance. Noble and elegant, it is generally used for formal pointed ties, designed to accompany a two- or three-piece suit. Worked in grenadine or knitwear, silk takes on a more pronounced texture, moving between formal elegance and casual chic.
- the silk and cotton blend: uncommon, this combination brings together the suppleness of silk and the stiffness of cotton for a result that is “crisp and indulgent”, both to the touch and to the eye.
- the wool and silk blend: just as natural as the previous option, it combines the rusticity of wool fibres with the finesse of silk fibres to create a fabric of extraordinary richness, proudly embracing every irregularity.
- wool: unlike grenadine, which is woven, our 100% wool ties are knitted. Comparable in their pearled appearance, wool knitwear ties have a more textured structure, inevitably drawing them towards a casual register.
The heart of the matter
Ah, the first tie knots! Somewhere between a rite of passage and an unofficial entry into adulthood, they inevitably mark the end of one era and the beginning of another. Often associated with first job interviews, first jobs and/or first ceremonies, they represent far more than an exercise in dexterity and skill. After all, one does not tie one’s tie as one laces one’s shoes, which is why first attempts at knotting are usually made with a father, an older brother… or alone in front of a tutorial.
Fortunately (or not), most convoluted techniques have disappeared in favour of the simplest of them all: the simple knot, or “four in hand”.
At Hast, this is how we tie our creations, particularly appreciating its timelessness, versatility and minimalism. While Émile Marco de Saint-Hilaire listed 32 of them in his 1827 work, it must be acknowledged that few could be worn today without attracting ridicule.
Wearing a tie in 2024
Gone is the era when the tie was an integral part of an almost caricatural uniform. In our humble opinion, it is now akin to a fully fledged accessory , whose wear says less about social standing than it does about a statement of style. Goodbye to the rigidity of the “suit-and-tie”, hello to inventiveness and creative freedom. By playing with shape, material, colour and pattern, it can say everything and its opposite, to the great delight of our wardrobes.
While its union with the suit may seem untouchable (and so much the better), it is perfectly possible to incorporate it into less formal outfits, or even thoroughly casual looks. Inseparable from the shirt, it can be imagined just as easily with a leather biker jacket as with a work jacket or a blouson, offering historically broad possibilities.
If we may offer a little advice, here is one that has never been more relevant since Louis XIII: enjoy yourself. Freed from the dust, inhibitions and much of its strict, cold imagery, the tie is more than ever to be seen as a plaything, to be worn everywhere and without restraint.
The pocket square, a small innocent pleasure
Let us now turn to an accessory intimately linked to the tie, namely the “pocket square”. From its natural habitat, the breast pocket of a suit jacket, it brings a touch of refinement where delicacy and functionality blend harmoniously. Also known as a “handkerchief”, its fate resembles that of the tie insofar as it is most often made in the same material, so that the two can be matched.
Though it comes in different forms (colours, patterns and materials) to suit every occasion, the pocket square cannot truly exist outside a suit jacket , which limits its potential and use. On the other hand, its use in formal dress is of rare elegance, and even more so when it echoes a tie of the same kind.
To make sure of it, Hast pocket squares are handmade by the same artisans who craft our ties. From their workshops on the shores of Lake Como, they prepare these two paragons of finesse together, promising absolutely sublime pairings.
A note on care
Given their delicacy, the finesse of their construction and the materials used, it is best to entrust the cleaning of your ties and pocket squares to a dry cleaner. Dry cleaning from time to time will do them a world of good and help them last, as a machine wash could prove fatal.
