How to wear a men's white shirt properly.
On 10 September 2012, Hast sold its very first piece. Which one? You guessed it: an elegant white poplin shirt. A true statement of intent.
Ten years on, our range has expanded to make room for every staple of the classic menswear wardrobe, but it is clear that the bond tying us to this garment remains truly special, both sentimentally and historically. In tribute to our first love and with a decade of perspective, we invite you to explore the best ways to wear the white shirt.
Fabrics that speak volumes.
Even if it is not taught in school, fabrics have a language entirely their own. Before considering colours or collars, be sure to understand the character of your shirt to avoid any missteps. Whether you are well-versed or just starting out, here is a brief guide to the fundamentals of this woven language:
- Dobby : named after the loom used to weave it, dobby often features subtle geometric patterns, including the famous waffle weave. Exceptionally refined, this subtly textured structure brings depth and elegance, which is why it is regularly favoured for (very) formal dress codes. If the occasion calls for a tuxedo, a white dobby shirt is undoubtedly what you will reach for—and rightly so.
- Poplin: the quintessential fabric for dress shirts, poplin takes its name from the papal city of Avignon, where it was invented in the 15th century. Thanks to relatively fine yarns and a very tight weave, this plain-weave cloth boasts a smooth, silky finish that makes it the go-to ally for formal attire. Fine, supple, and lightweight, poplin is undeniably the most effective fabric for crafting a clean, understated dress shirt.
- Pinpoint : a hybrid fabric par excellence, pinpoint remains firmly within the realm of refined cloths without concealing its affinity for texture and substance. Wonderfully combining the weave of Oxford with the fineness of poplin, it serves as a smarter take on the former, or a less formal rendition of the latter. A compromise? Let us call it the perfect middle ground.
- Oxford: noticeably thicker than poplin, Oxford cloth is iconic among fans of casual shirts. But that is not all. Woven with paired warp and weft yarns, this classic basket weave reveals a rich texture and a distinctive substance. Historically woven with yarns of different colours, Oxford today also embraces solid shades, with white suiting it particularly well. Ultimately, this cloth will serve you well across all four seasons, from the most laid-back looks to smarter ensembles. Versatile and adaptable, it will elevate any casual outfit and soften any look deemed too strict. For a first shirt, a white Oxford is quite simply a sure bet.
- Twill : unlike the previous fabrics, twill is not a plain weave but a twill weave. Rather than being produced by the simple over-and-under interlacing of warp and weft yarns, it is achieved by offsetting them during weaving. This very technique gives twill its distinctive diagonal lines (and makes it remarkably easy to iron). Silky and durable, we highly recommend this fabric for formal occasions to showcase its considered individuality.
- Herringbone: just like twill, herringbone is a twill fabric woven to create a distinctive zig-zag pattern. By alternating directions, the twill diagonals form the look of fish bones, which is precisely why it is known as herringbone. A fabric you are unlikely to forget. PS: a white herringbone shirt has such richness and texture that we recommend keeping the rest of your outfit understated.
- Linen: while technically more of a raw material than a weave, linen boasts such unique properties that it only feels right to include it here. Quick-drying, exceptionally absorbent, naturally thermoregulating: this natural fibre reminiscent of an eighth wonder of the world makes for relaxed white shirts that are especially coveted in summer. Whether blended or pure, it lends a dry, rustic handle to any fabric, imbuing it with a textural character that is as appealing as it is imperfect. Workwear enthusiasts, Riviera style devotees, and lovers of raw textures alike: all find common ground in linen.
The case of collars.
The finishing touch: the collar of a white shirt is anything but incidental. Its shape, length, and details all say something about the piece they crown. From the most formal to the most casual, here is an overview to help you master their style and purpose. Formal collars: designed to accommodate a tie or a bow tie, these collars boast a presence and proportions that live up to the part. At Hast, large collars, tab collars, wingtip collars, and pin collars belong to this sartorially inspired category. In harmony with fabrics in the same vein, they allow you to put together sharp, flawless outfits.
Versatile collars: more adaptable, our point collars, semi-cutaway, club or button-down styles are also more forgiving. You can wear them with or without a tie, integrating them effortlessly into decidedly more relaxed outfits. Unsurprisingly, you will find them on shirts crafted in more textured fabrics closer to the casual realm.
Specialist collars: if you know our passion for shirtmaking, you will not be surprised to see pieces with distinctive collars on our rails. Such is the case with our mandarin, officer, and hidden-button models. Less commonplace and more niche, they allow you to bring an unexpected touch to your white shirts and overall look.
A white shirt for every style.
You already know this if you have read our shirt guide: nothing differs more from a white shirt than another white shirt. Between a linen popover and a dobby version, there is a whole world that hints at just how different two seemingly similar pieces can be.
It is therefore essential to grasp the various parameters explored above to best judge which shirt will suit a given setting. Whether you put on a white shirt for a formal event, a business dinner, a workday at the office, or a picnic in the park, the atmosphere—and your needs—will inevitably differ.
As a general rule: the more formal the occasion, the simpler you should keep it. It is hard to go wrong with a white poplin shirt with a point collar. Conversely, the more informal the setting, the more freedom you have to play with fabric and collar textures, all while keeping things well-balanced.
By way of example, here is the shirt we would choose depending on the occasion:
- For an evening at the opera, worn with a tuxedo and a bow tie: a white poplin shirt with a wingtip collar.
- For a wedding, worn with a Fresco wool suit and a knitted tie: a white pinpoint shirt with a semi-cutaway collar.
- For a business lunch, worn with a charcoal grey suit: a white twill shirt with a point collar.
- For a day at the office, worn with jeans and a work jacket: a white Oxford shirt with a large button-down collar.
- For weekend brunch on a terrace, worn with chinos and an overshirt: a white linen shirt with a button-down collar.
Naturally, the rules presented here are less set-in-stone dictums than general theoretical foundations. Mastering them means giving yourself the freedom to break them with style; and it is in this spirit that all our white shirts are at your service.
