How to wear a men's white shirt properly.
On September 10, 2012, Hast sold his very first piece. What was it? We'll give you a thousand guesses: an elegant white poplin shirt . Like a symbol.
Ten years later, our range has expanded to include all the essentials of the classic men's wardrobe, but we must recognize that the connection that unites us to this piece remains special, both sentimentally and historically. In homage to our first love and with a decade of hindsight on the subject, we invite you to examine the best ways to wear the white shirt.
Fabrics that speak volumes.
Although it's not taught in school (although!), believe me, fabrics have a language all their own. Before thinking about color or collar, make sure you understand the language of your shirt to avoid any misunderstandings. Whether you're bilingual or a beginner, a little reminder is in order to master the basics of this warp and weft language:
- Dobby : named after the loom used to weave it, the "honeycomb." Extremely refined, this subtly embossed weave brings consistency and elegance, which is why it is regularly popular in (very) formal settings. If the occasion arises to wear a tuxedo, it is likely to be worn with a white dobby shirt, and you will do well.
- Poplin : the iconic material for formal shirts , poplin takes its name from the papal city of Avignon, where it was invented in the 15th century. Thanks to its relatively fine threads and a very tight weave , this fabric has a smooth, silky appearance that makes it the perfect ally for formal wear. Fine, supple, and lightweight , poplin is undoubtedly the most effective fabric for making a simple, no-frills formal shirt.
- Pinpoint : A hybrid fabric if ever there was one, pinpoint remains within the realm of distinguished fabrics without concealing a taste for structure and density. Prodigiously combining the weave of Oxford and the finesse of poplin , it constitutes a formal variation of the former, or a less strict version of the latter. An in-between? Let's say a happy medium.
- Oxford : Significantly thicker than poplin, Oxford is known as the white wolf among casual shirt lovers. But not only that. Doubled in warp and weft, the weave of this iconic fabric reveals a rich texture and unparalleled generosity . Historically mottled with threads of different colors, Oxford today supports solid colors, with white being particularly well suited to the complexion. Finally, this woven fabric will make you happy four seasons a year, from the most casual looks to the most dressed-up outfits. Versatile and multipurpose , it will enhance the slightest casual composition and disinhibit any ensemble deemed too strict. For a first shirt, white Oxford is simply all-risk insurance.
- Twill : Unlike the previous fabrics, twill is not a plain weave but a so-called "twill" weave. Unlike the former, this is not achieved by the regular interlacing of the warp and weft threads, but by offsetting them during weaving. It is precisely this process that gives twill its characteristic diagonals (and makes it so easy to iron). Silky and strong, we recommend this fabric in a formal setting to honor its studied originality.
- Herringbone : Like twill, herringbone is a twill fabric whose structure is worked to form a "zig-zag" pattern. By alternating up and down, the diagonals of the twill form herringbones, which is why our English-speaking friends decided to call this fabric "herringbone." Here's one you won't forget. PS: the white chevron patterned shirt has such richness and texture that we recommend the sobriety card to complete your outfit.
- Linen : While it's less a fabric than a raw material, linen has such unique properties that it seems only fitting to add it to this list. Quick-drying, exceptional absorbency, and thermoregulating properties: this natural fiber, which resembles the eighth wonder of the world, makes it possible to create casual white shirts that are particularly popular in summer. Whether combined with other materials or not, it adds a dry, rustic touch to any fabric, giving it an irregular grain that's as delightful as it is imperfect. Whether you're a workwear enthusiast, a fan of the Riviera style, or a fan of raw materials, linen has it all.
The case of passes.
The icing on the cake is that the collar of a white shirt is far from trivial. Its shape, its length, its details all say something about the person they crown. From the most formal to the most casual, we invite you to review them to master their meaning and essence. Dress collars: designed to accommodate a tie or a bow tie, these collars display a presence and proportions that match this ambition. At Hast, large collars, English collars, wing collars, and pin collars belong to this sartorially inspired category. In keeping with fabrics of the same vein, they will allow you to create distinguished outfits without false notes.
Versatile collars : more versatile, our French , semi-cutaway, club, and button-down collars are also more permissive. You can tame these collars with or without a tie and integrate them into much more casual outfits. Unsurprisingly, you'll find them on shirts made with more textured fabrics and closer to the casual world.
Special collars : if you know our attachment to the world of shirts, you won't be surprised to discover on our racks pieces adorned with special collars. This is the case for our Mao , officer or even hidden button models. More confidential, these are not common and will allow you to bring an unexpected touch to your white shirts as well as to your outfits.
Each style has its own white shirt.
You already knew this if you've read our shirt guide : nothing is more different from a white shirt than any other white shirt. Between a linen popover and a dobby version, there's a world of difference that reveals the distance that can separate two seemingly similar models.
Therefore, it is important to understand the different parameters studied above to best gauge which one will attract your favor in a given context. Whether you wear a white shirt for a ceremony, a business dinner, a work day or a lunch on the grass, the atmosphere will be different and so will your needs.
Generally speaking, the rule of thumb is: the more serious the occasion, the simpler it is. It's hard to go wrong with a white poplin shirt with a French collar . Symmetrically, the more informal the occasion, the more eccentricity (all things considered) it allows for in terms of fabric and collar.
As an example, here is the shirt we would choose depending on the situation:
- For an evening at the opera , worn with a tuxedo and bow tie: a white poplin shirt with a wing collar.
- For a wedding , worn with a fresco wool suit and a knitted tie: a white pinpoint shirt, semi-cutaway collar.
- For a professional lunch , worn with a charcoal gray suit: a white twilight shirt , French collar.
- For an office day , worn with jeans and a work jacket: a white oxford shirt, large button-down collar.
- For a brunch on the terrace, worn with chinos and an overshirt: a white linen button-down shirt.
Obviously, the codes presented here are less immutable rules than theoretical and generalist bases. Mastering them is above all giving yourself the right to free yourself from them with style; and it is in this spirit that all our white shirts offer you their services.
