In praise of a pass that does nothing like the others
Sometimes exotic, often intimidating and always remarkable, the officer collar is one of those oddities that only the male wardrobe knows the secret to. Charming and unique , it is at the same time the supreme collar and the anti-collar, which is why it fascinates as much as it divides . To this paragon of finesse and humility, we dedicate today's article, which we hope you enjoy reading.
War, love
Formerly collarless, since it was an undergarment, the shirt acquired one during the 15th century, first on the shoulders of men of the church. From the clergy to the nobility of the court, including Renaissance intellectuals, these stripped collars became increasingly massive, going from a symbol of purity to an ostentatious sign of luxury and wealth. It was not until the 19th century that they abandoned their lace, ribbons and other bulky ornaments to reconnect with the sobriety and simplicity of the early days.
Unsurprisingly, it was on the military side that this austerity reached its peak. At that time, many European army corps opted for this "band collar" (as the English say): a high collar stand whose edges overlap and button at the Adam's apple, without the slightest fold. The officer collar, whose name you now understand, had just been born.
Officer collar and Mao collar, white cap and white bonnet?
Since its introduction on the European market, and especially since the controversy triggered by the Minister of Culture Jack Lang in 1985, the Mao collar has been very regularly confused with the officer collar . If it is so easy to take the first for the second (and vice versa), it is because their absence of panels makes them noticeably similar.
However, their assembly differs enough to make them two very distinct models. In fact, the main variant is revealed on the front: the officer collar is closed by a button while the Mao collar (or "mandarin collar", its real name) is open.
As you can see, the edges of the collar stand kiss on the left one, while they overlap slightly on the right one. This small nuance brings an extra dose of formalism to the officer collar, while it classifies the Mao collar on the casual side. For this reason, one will easily evolve from the most chic outfits to the most casual, while the other will not support dress jackets.
Hast and the cult of the officer collar
Love of shirtmaking obliges, we could not pass by this majestic collar at Hast. Imtely after having interpreted the great classics at the beginning ( French collars , button-down and semi-cutaway in the first place), we therefore developed our version of the officer collar , which has not left our collections since then. Timeless and unique , this one has established itself as an essential of the male wardrobe , which is why we wanted to roll out the red carpet for it.
In keeping with its history and evolution, we have worked on it according to the rules of art by symmetrically cultivating its formal aspect and its casual potential. On our racks, you will therefore find:
- the officer collar topping dress shirts. In this context, it will be revealed at the top of distinguished pieces, crafted in double-twisted cotton poplin in a very elegant register. Very fine thread, supple and silky fabric, French placket, beveled cuffs, cross-stitched buttons: all the codes of formalism are combined to offer you pieces at the height of refinement. Provided you wear them without a tie, you can combine them with your most sophisticated outfits, for an ensemble that combines panache and tradition.
- the officer collar crowning casual shirts. That's the magic of this collar: with its buttoned band and clever proportions, it can change repertoire with disconcerting ease. If it was chic and delicate on the front of a poplin piece, here it is suddenly dashing and unusual on the top of an informal shirt. As usual, you will recognize the latter by their casual cut, the richness of their materials (organic cotton, linen, tencel) and the texture of their weave (denim or flannel for example). In the same way, you will discover a more extensive chromatic palette, possibly mottled, betraying a clearly more relaxed atmosphere.
To wear without moderation
At Hast, we have been advocating the cause of the officer collar since 2012. Preaching in the desert, we had to wait for the success of the Peaky Blinders series to see it flourish on (almost) all necks.
Alongside the fame of the saga, that of the officer collar grew, confirming that it was not the preserve of the military or the clergy. For our part, we are obviously delighted by this renewed interest, which we believe to be legitimate and justified. Long an object of distrust, wrongly considered difficult to wear, the officer collar is today winning over all hearts thanks to its formidable versatility.
And for good reason, it seems impossible to catch out. In any season and on any occasion, its minimalism and great versatility make it a partner like no other. The proof in pictures:
- Taken out of the pants, the officer collar shirt instantly brings a touch of controlled irreverence, ideal for doing things differently without overdoing it. Want to go further? Dare to have a small pattern.
- Less nonchalant but just as captivating, nothing prevents you from wearing a shirt with an officer collar over a light t-shirt and tucking it into your pants. By opening it a little, a lot or passionately, you can play on the contrast to create a silhouette full of panache, between seriousness and boldness.
- To the discipline characteristic of his military past, why not respond with the quiet insouciance of a Riviera look? A popover shirt with an officer collar tucked into pleated linen and cotton trousers , and there you have it. With the compliments of the talented Mr. Ripley.
- And in winter? Don't leave your officer collar in the locker room! Instead, wear it over a thin turtleneck and let the magic happen.
- More down-to-earth but no less effective, you can also wear the officer collar shirt in its natural habitat, surrounded by a sober suit that will give it plenty of room to express itself. In this case, be sure to leave the tie in the locker room , and prepare to collect a few compliments.
And now it's your turn. Break up!
