In praise of a collar unlike any other
Sometimes disorienting, often intimidating and always remarkable, the band collar is one of those curiosities of which only the men's wardrobe holds the secret. Charming and distinctive, it is at once the ultimate collar and an anti-collar, which is why it fascinates as much as it divides. We dedicate today's article to this paragon of finesse and humility, and wish you an enjoyable read.
War and love
Originally collarless, as an undergarment, the shirt acquired one during the 15th century, first on the shoulders of clergymen. From the clergy to the court nobility, via the intellectuals of the Renaissance, these unadorned collars became increasingly imposing, evolving from a symbol of purity into an ostentatious sign of luxury and wealth. It was not until the 19th century that they abandoned their lace, ribbons and other voluminous ornaments to return to the sobriety and simplicity of earlier times.
Band collar and Mao collar: six of one, half a dozen of the other?
Since its introduction to the European market, and especially since the controversy sparked by Culture Minister Jack Lang in 1985, the Mao collar has very regularly been confused with the band collar. If it is so easy to mistake the former for the latter (and vice versa), it is because their lack of collar points makes them broadly similar. Yet their construction differs enough to make them two distinct styles. In fact, the main difference lies at the front: the band collar fastens with a button, whereas the Mao collar (or “Mandarin collar”, its true name) is open.
As you can see, the edges of the collar stand meet on the left-hand side, while they overlap slightly on the right. This subtle detail lends the band collar an added degree of formality, while placing the Mao collar among more casual collars. For this reason, one can move easily from the smartest to the most casual outfits, whereas the other sits poorly with tailored jackets.
Hast and the cult of the band collar
Our love of shirtmaking obliged us not to overlook this majestic collar at Hast. Having interpreted the great classics from our earliest days (French collars, button-down and semi-cutaway foremost among them), we therefore developed our version of the band collar, which has remained part of our collections ever since. Timeless and distinctive, it has established itself as an essential of the men's wardrobe, which is why we wanted to roll out the red carpet for it.
- The band collar crowning formal shirts. In this context, it comes into its own atop distinguished pieces, crafted in double-twisted cotton poplin in a highly elegant register. Fine yarn, supple and silky fabric, French placket, mitred cuffs, cross-stitched buttons: every code of formality comes together to offer pieces of the utmost refinement. Provided you wear them without a tie, you can pair them with your most sophisticated outfits, for a look combining flair and tradition.
- The band collar crowning casual shirts. That is the magic of this collar: with its buttoned band and considered proportions, it can shift registers with disconcerting ease. Chic and delicate atop a poplin piece, it suddenly becomes dashing and unusual on an informal shirt. As usual, you will recognise the latter by their casual cut, the richness of their fabrics (organic cotton, linen, tencel) and the texture of their weave (denim or flannel , for example). Likewise, you will find a broader colour palette, perhaps with a marl finish, revealing a distinctly more relaxed mood.
To wear without restraint
At Hast, we have championed the band collar since 2012. A voice in the wilderness, it took the success of the series Peaky Blinders for it to flourish around (almost) every neck. Alongside the saga's renown, that of the band collar grew, confirming that it was the preserve of neither military men nor clergymen. For our part, we are naturally delighted by this renewed interest, which we consider legitimate and justified. Long regarded with suspicion and wrongly considered difficult to wear, the band collar now wins every heart thanks to its remarkable versatility.
And for good reason: it seems impossible to fault. In every season and for every occasion, its minimalism and great versatility make it a partner like no other. The proof in pictures:
- Worn untucked over trousers, the band-collar shirt instantly brings a note of considered irreverence, ideal for doing things differently without overdoing it.
- Less nonchalant but just as captivating, nothing stops you from wearing a band-collar shirt over a light T-shirt and tucking it into your trousers. By leaving it open a little, a lot or passionately, you can play with contrast to create a silhouette full of flair, somewhere between seriousness and boldness.
- Why not answer the discipline characteristic of its military past with the easy-going nonchalance of a Riviera look? A popover shirt with a band collar tucked into pleated trousers in linen and cotton, or worn untucked over shorts , and the job is done. With compliments from the talented Mr Ripley.
- And in winter? Above all, do not leave your band collar in the wardrobe! Wear it instead over a fine roll neck, and let the magic happen.
- More down to earth but no less effective, you can also wear the band-collar shirt in its natural habitat, paired with a restrained suit that gives it every opportunity to express itself. In that case, leave the tie in the wardrobe and prepare to receive a few compliments.
A final word
With its understated yet distinctive look, the band collar stands out as a cornerstone of the men's wardrobe. More than a simple detail, it embodies a subtle elegance capable of transcending styles, from the most formal to the most casual. By choosing it, you opt for a touch of originality without forsaking refinement. So dare to step off the beaten track and let this unique collar reveal your personality with confidence and flair.
