In praise of a pass that does nothing like the others
Sometimes exotic, often intimidating, and always remarkable, the officer collar is one of those oddities that only the male wardrobe knows the secret to. Charming and unique, it is simultaneously the ultimate collar and the anti-collar, which is why it fascinates as much as it divides. We dedicate today's article to this paragon of finesse and humility, and we hope you enjoy reading it.
War, love
Formerly collarless, as it was an undergarment, the shirt acquired one during the 15th century, first on the shoulders of men of the church. From the clergy to the court nobility and including Renaissance intellectuals, these stripped collars became increasingly massive, going from a symbol of purity to an ostentatious sign of luxury and wealth. It was not until the 19th century that they abandoned their lace, ribbons and other voluminous ornaments to reconnect with the sobriety and simplicity of the early days.
Officer collar and Mao collar, white hat and white bonnet?
Since its introduction to the European market, and especially since the controversy sparked by the Minister of Culture Jack Lang in 1985, the Mao collar has been very regularly confused with the officer collar . If it is so easy to mistake the former for the latter (and vice versa), it is because their lack of panels makes them substantially similar. However, their assembly differs sufficiently to make them two very distinct models. In fact, the main variant is revealed on the front: the officer collar is closed by a button while the Mao collar (or "Mandarin collar", as it is really called) is open.
As you can see, the edges of the collar stand kiss on the left one, while they overlap slightly on the right one. This small nuance brings an extra dose of formality to the officer collar, while it classifies the Mao collar as a casual collar. For this reason, one will easily evolve from the most chic outfits to the most casual, while the other will not support dress jackets .
Hast and the cult of the officer collar
With our love of shirtmaking, we couldn't miss this majestic collar at Hast. Imtely after having interpreted the great classics at the beginning ( French , button-down and semi-cutaway collars in particular), we therefore developed our version of the officer collar , which has never left our collections since then. Timeless and unique, it has established itself as an essential part of the men's wardrobe, which is why we wanted to roll out the red carpet for it.
- The officer collar topping dress shirts . In this context, it will reveal itself at the top of distinguished pieces, crafted in double-twisted cotton poplin in a very elegant register. Very fine thread, supple and silky fabric, French throat, beveled cuffs, cross-stitched buttons: all the codes of formalism are combined to offer you pieces at the height of refinement. Provided you wear them without a tie , you can combine them with your most sophisticated outfits, for an ensemble combining panache and tradition.
- The officer collar crowns casual shirts . That's the magic of this collar: with its buttoned band and clever proportions, it can change repertoire with disconcerting ease. If it was chic and delicate on the front of a poplin piece, now it's suddenly dashing and unusual on an informal shirt. As usual, you'll recognize the latter by their casual cut, the richness of their materials (organic cotton, linen , tencel ) and the texture of their weave ( denim or flannel for example). In the same way, you'll discover a more extensive color palette, possibly mottled, betraying a much more relaxed atmosphere.
To be worn without moderation
At Hast, we've been advocating for the officer collar since 2012. Preaching in the desert, it wasn't until the success of the Peaky Blinders series that it began to flourish on (almost) every neck. Alongside the saga's fame, the officer collar's popularity grew, confirming that it wasn't the preserve of either the military or the clergy. For our part, we're obviously delighted by this renewed interest, which we believe is legitimate and justified. Long viewed with suspicion, wrongly considered difficult to wear, the officer collar is now winning hearts thanks to its incredible versatility.
And for good reason: it seems impossible to fault. In any season and for any occasion, its minimalism and great versatility make it a partner like no other. The proof in pictures:
- Taken out of the trousers , the officer collar shirt instantly brings a touch of controlled irreverence, ideal for doing things differently without overdoing it.
- Less casual but just as captivating, nothing is stopping you from wearing a mandarin collar shirt over a light-colored t-shirt and tucking it into your pants. By opening it a little, a lot, or passionately, you can play with contrast to create a silhouette full of panache, somewhere between serious and bold.
- Why not respond to the discipline characteristic of his military background with the quiet insouciance of a Riviera look? A popover shirt with a mandarin collar tucked into pleated linen and cotton trousers or pulled out of shorts and you're good to go. Compliments to the talented Mr. Ripley.
- And in winter? Don't leave your officer collar in the locker room! Instead, wear it over a thin turtleneck and let the magic happen.
- More down-to-earth but no less effective, you can also wear the officer collar shirt in its natural habitat, surrounded by a sober suit that will give it plenty of room to express itself. In this case, be sure to leave the tie in the locker room, and prepare to collect some compliments.
The final word
With its understated yet distinctive look, the officer collar stands out as a key piece in the men's wardrobe. More than just a detail, it embodies a subtle elegance capable of transcending styles, from the most formal to the most casual. By choosing it, you're opting for a touch of originality without sacrificing refinement. So, dare to think outside the box and let this unique collar reveal your personality with confidence and panache.
