October already.
Without quite knowing where summer has gone, here come the long sobs of autumn’s violins that so wounded Paul Verlaine’s heart. With them come the distinctive colours of a season romantic to some, melancholy to others. Its pale dawns, hurried twilights and air laboriously trying to turn cool. And its trousers, too: the great gravediggers of summer shorts, to which this article is devoted.
What are autumn trousers?
The question is legitimate, and our answer is as follows: we shall consider autumn trousers to be any legwear capable of dressing yours between October and December (and beyond, if the mood takes you) without leaving you too cold or too warm. In other words, transitional-season trousers suited to temperatures from 5°C to 20°C. It is unlikely that this definition will make it into the Dictionary of the French Academy, but it will at least allow us to present those at Hast that can lay claim to the title.
It is all about the fabric
Trousers that keep you warm when it is cool without making you sweat when the mercury rises do not come easily. These properties require specific materials: a combination of special fibres and a particular weave. In our humble opinion, these are the ones that stand out:
- corduroy. A small marvel of ingenuity, it refers to a complex technique in which two layers of fabric are joined by a warp thread that is then cut with a razor. Once cut close to the surface, it gives velvet its characteristic softness.
- moleskin. A heavy satin weave achieved through very dense weaving, moleskin is a silky-feeling cloth whose name—derived from the English “mole skin”—literally means “mole’s skin”. Sometimes coated with a supple finish, it comes straight from French workwear, where it is particularly valued for its durability and natural water repellency.
- flannel. Like velvet and moleskin, flannel is above all a weaving method. It involves lightly brushing the fabric to raise the fibres and give it a soft, fleecy appearance. Treated in this way, the fibres trap more air and create a more insulating cloth—while remaining particularly soft.
Corduroy, moleskin, flannel: these are, in our view, the three techniques that offer the most suitable fabrics for autumn weeks. But the right fibres must still be chosen to weave them. This is where two natural fibres ideal for the season come in: wool and cotton.
Hard-wearing, insulating, hypoallergenic, biodegradable, thermoregulating and self-cleaning, the former is simply indispensable below 15°C. A natural raw material, it has nothing to envy the finest technical fibres, making it an ideal ally for getting through autumn.
For its part, cotton remains the quintessential four-season fabric. Particularly soft, highly absorbent and easy to care for, it can be relied upon for transitional-season trousers, provided you choose a sufficiently weighty fabric.
Hast autumn trousers
With that introduction out of the way, let us get down to business with an introduction to the Hast trousers that will make your legs look their best this autumn. From the most casual to the most formal, here are the five long-awaited protagonists:
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A peaceful take on the famous US Army cargo trousers, our military trousers are crafted from 100% cotton moleskin woven in France by Maison Velcorex. With a density of 310 gr/m2, this fabric promises impressive weight, durability and texture. A regular fit, patch pocket and side adjusters complete the picture: here is a piece with real character. On top, you can opt for restraint with a simple, elegant jumper, or go all out with an equally bold work jacket
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As versatile as they come, our navy pure virgin wool trousers rely on the properties of their raw material and their 330 gr/m2 weight to ensure optimal comfort. Their tailored fit and meticulous finishing make them a formidable companion, equally at ease with a shirt and a work jacket as with a polo shirt-collar jumper.
- On its side, the ecru corduroy double-pleated trousers cleverly bring together two worlds. On the one hand, their thick 100% cotton corduroy evokes the weight and generosity of casual pieces; on the other, their construction borrows from tailoring with their full-length creases, side placket and two pairs of pleats. The best of both worlds, in a piece that is half casual, half tailored, and sure to appeal to lovers of relaxed elegance. Another advantage: this dual heritage allows them to work with very cosy pieces—such as our fleece rugby polo shirt—as well as more formal ones, such as this sage work jacket.
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Our grey cotton moleskin double-pleated trousers follow the same tailored construction, but in a smarter fabric. The originality of these trousers lies precisely in this cloth, which at first glance could be mistaken for wool flannel. Woven exclusively for Hast in Italy, it features subtle chalk stripes that lend elegance and verticality to this striking model. Wear without restraint, preferably with a fine wool jacket.
- Freely inspired by the Gurkha, this sartorially styled creation is made from wool flannel woven in Italy, at Maison Marzotto. With its side adjusters, regular fit and high waist, it will appeal to lovers of classic elegance. A statement piece if ever there was one, it will not tolerate just any company: formal shirts, ties and smart jackets will be called for to make the most of its full potential.
A final word
Contrary to what one might think, finding a good pair of trousers for autumn is no easy task. You need to find the right fabric, the right weight and the right material—variables that considerably complicate the equation during the transitional season.
To make life easier, we have included five in our new collection, from military influences to the heights of classic elegance. Colour palette, fabric density, raw materials and weaving techniques: we have attended to every detail so that each of you can find the right fit. Or rather, the right trousers.