What is essential, wrote Saint-Exupéry, is invisible to the eye. Perhaps that is why suit jackets keep their secrets so well, holding their craftsmanship close to the chest. Here, we reveal the secrets behind ours.
Back to basics
Their price may have given it away: suit jackets and blazers are among the most complex garments to tailor. What is true in bespoke tailoring (a single piece requiring dozens of hours of work) also holds true in ready-to-wear manufacturing: the process involves numerous intricate steps and meticulous craftsmanship.
The first involves inserting a fusible interlining into the jacket lining before heat-pressing it to bond with the fabric. The panels are thus held in place, providing structure and ensuring a clean hang. The drawback: this glued interlining is made of synthetic materials, meaning zero breathability, limited flexibility, and a tendency to bubble over time. Fast, practical, and inexpensive, this technique heavily dominates the market, especially in ready-to-wear.
The second is a hybrid method combining fused construction with traditional canvas. The fused layer is applied to the lower part of the jacket, while a tailor’s canvas (typically made from a blend of linen, wool, and horsehair fibres) covers the upper half. In addition to using natural fibres, this canvas is stitched rather than glued, allowing for optimal drape and flexibility across the chest. More intricate, half-canvassed construction is naturally more costly, but infinitely more refined. Comfort, elegance, durability: it delivers qualities out of reach for fully fused garments.
We will touch only briefly on the third method, as it is reserved for Haute Mesure. Indeed, full canvassing is almost exclusively found in bespoke jackets crafted from start to finish by master tailors. It is undeniably the pinnacle of construction, but it commands four-figure prices, far removed from the fair pricing our philosophy demands.
Our first half-canvassed jackets
As hinted in the title of this article, we opted for half-canvassed construction for this autumn-winter 2024 collection. True to our ambition of crafting exceptional everyday garments, we are delighted to offer this luxurious technique, a true rarity in ready-to-wear.
This season, our four single-breasted jackets and our double-breasted jacket are tailored in this manner, with a truly distinctive detail. The canvas (the floating chest piece sewn between the outer fabric and the jacket lining) has been developed exclusively for Hast. As a result, it fits seamlessly across the chest of our jackets to provide a clean, sharp drape. In particular, it gives a unique structure to the sleeve head, subtly evoking the characteristic "cigarette" roll of classic British tailoring.
Paired with clean lines and generous 8.5 cm lapels (10 cm for the double-breasted jacket), this construction marks a foray into sartorial art. A testament to elegance and craftsmanship, two values we know you share.
How to wear our half-canvassed jackets
Discreet as it may be, half-canvassed construction does not dictate a jacket's style. Invisible to the naked eye, save for the natural drape it imparts, it elevates casual sports jackets and formal tailoring alike. Unsurprisingly, you can wear ours in both smart and relaxed settings.
Over a warm, textured jumper, for instance, layering up as the autumn weather sets in. Crafted from a moleskin cotton that rivals fine wool flannels, this brushed-texture jacket is particularly well suited to the look.
Over a roll neck jumper to bring verticality to a smart-casual outfit while keeping the chill at bay. If the presence of our Prince of Wales check wool double-breasted jacket feels intimidating, this is an ideal way to tone it down effortlessly.
Over a casual shirt, such as this distinctive 100% cotton chambray western shirt. Pairing a tailored half-canvassed jacket with a relaxed shirt may not seem obvious, but you will find it remarkably effective. The boldest among you might even add a contrasting silk scarf, provided cowboy boots stay in the wardrobe. Or perhaps not.
With a dress shirt and a tie, of course. In this case, contrasting trousers offer an alternative if the two-piece suit feels a little too formal.
Alternatively, opting for the matching suit is always a winning choice. This ensemble has embodied masculine elegance for two centuries, and you can never go wrong by wearing the most refined of uniforms.
A manifesto for accessible excellence
Ultimately, choosing traditional half-canvassed construction was an obvious step for Hast. With passion and precision, we build a timeless wardrobe defined by understated elegance, and this technique is its purest expression in the realm of the suit jacket. It requires expertise, craftsmanship, and precision—values we have championed since 2016.
Today, we are proud to offer garments of this calibre, crafted entirely in Europe using certified natural fibres.
Transparency, conscience, honesty, responsibility, and virtuosity: in these five half-canvassed suit jackets, you will find the foundational elements of every garment, of every collection, and of the Hast ethos as a whole.