Dare to wear a double-breasted jacket

Elegant among the elegant, the double-breasted jacket is one of those pieces that leave a trail of wonder and amazement in its wake. Striking in its presence, disturbing in its majesty, it commands respect and forces admiration. Whether it attracts tributes or covetousness, it leaves no one indifferent; and the one we present to you today is no exception.

Light, engine, action.

The origins of the double-breasted jacket

Before being the sister of the straight jacket , the double-breasted jacket is first the daughter of the pea coat. Inspired by this short sailor coat with double button placket, it appeared in its modern form in the middle of the 19th century. Made from a lighter fabric, it retains the ingenious fastening system that allowed sailors to attach their wool on one side or the other depending on the direction of the wind.

Valued for its aesthetic power more than for its windproof properties, the double-breasted button-down has fascinated people on dry land for nearly 200 years. Over time, it has come and gone on the shoulders of these gentlemen, sometimes dressing one and sometimes the other; pretending to decline only to return a decade later.

Rowers from prestigious English universities, Royal Navy soldiers, actors, aristocrats, nostalgic for a certain idea of ​​classical elegance, politicians, gangsters, advocates of dandyism, wolves of Wall Street, lovers of sartorial art: many have succumbed to the charms of the double-breasted jacket over two centuries of history. And to tell you the truth, we understand why.

Anatomy of an Unconventional Jacket

Like the suit jacket, the “double breasted jacket” (as it is called in English) is a sleeved piece that has a ventral opening and two lapels at chest level. However, it is distinguished by this singular buttoning which sees one side of the jacket straddle the second in a graceful gesture. Beyond the visual impression, this way of closing implies a particular construction which conditions certain characteristics specific to the double-breasted jacket: 

• Its lapels are generally wider. In keeping with the sense of proportion, the lapels of double-breasted jackets regularly flirt with the 10 cm width mark, while those of single-breasted jackets rarely venture beyond 7-8 cm.

• She likes peaked lapels. While notched lapels are common on single-breasted jackets, double-breasted jackets prefer peaked lapels. Again, it's all about visual harmony, and this type of lapel actually echoes the "V" drawn by this generous neckline better.

• Button configuration is essential. Double-breasted means distribution of buttons on either side of the jacket, and this detail alone is a world of difference. To keep it simple, we will only mention the two most common layouts here: 6x2 and 4x2 (pronounced “6 in 2” and “4 in 2”). The first number represents the total number of visible buttons, while the second indicates the number of functional buttons; the others provide a purely aesthetic function to ensure symmetry.

Our double-breasted jacket, fall-winter 2025 version

For the upcoming season, we have edited a delicious double-breasted jacket, making sure to inject it with the attributes specific to the Hast wardrobe. You will therefore find the elegance and beauty inherent in this impressive piece; but also the honesty, accuracy and versatility that infuse each of our creations.

Respectful of classic codes, we have chosen a traditional construction based on a 6x2 double-breasted buttoning opening onto 10 cm peaked lapels. Parallel to the vertical English buttons, two Milanese buttons play the game of symmetry on the edges of the latter. For their part, the shoulders assume a natural fall with a light structure that subtly evokes the art of Italian tailoring. At the bottom, a pair of flap pockets brings structure to the lower half of the piece , while the delicate Prince of Wales pattern gives the whole a precise elegance and absolute refinement.

But that's not all. You know the importance we attach to the eco-design of our clothes as well as to the richness of their finishes , and we have pushed the cursor very far to develop this one. Worked in 100% pure wool woven in Italy, it benefits from a semi-canvas construction ensured in Portugal. 

If you are not familiar with this assembly technique, know that it is a demanding method that requires sewing a tailor's canvas at the level of the jacket's plastron to ensure better durability, total flexibility and a fluid look on the torso. A detail that is not one and that is usually found on much higher price ranges.

The cherry on the cake: we have added an adjustment strap inside the jacket. A tailor's touch that is nevertheless important since it ensures an absolutely perfect fit.

The Subtle Art of Wearing the Double-Breasted Jacket

Looking at it, many men would be tempted to see it as the most formal of formal jackets. The bust equivalent of a pair of double-pleated trousers , if you will. And yet.

And yet, the double-breasted jacket can perfectly be considered in a more flexible register, provided that it is mismatched. It will then be necessary to mark a clear break between the top and the bottom of the silhouette, by calling upon much more casual pants. We have favored a light corduroy here, but raw denim would have also done the trick, as well as colorful chinos.

Of course, formal wear remains the double-breasted jacket's natural habitat , and nothing will please it more than the touch of a formal shirt tied with a nice tie and pleated trousers .

As for shoes, everything will depend on the alternative you have chosen. If you have gone for the casual chic side, minimalist sneakers can pertinently accentuate the notion of relaxation. If you have gone all-in on elegance, on the other hand, a pair of well-polished leather shoes seems essential. As for loafers, it is no longer a secret for you: they can do everything.

The final word

Daughter of the pea coat and sister of the straight jacket, icon of formal pieces at ease far from one's comfort zone, aesthetic masterpiece, undisputed marvel of the male wardrobe, the double-breasted jacket is one of those legendary pieces that make clothing a true art of living.