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Embracing the double-breasted jacket

4 min read

The epitome of elegance, the double-breasted jacket belongs to that rare breed of garments that command admiration wherever they go. Striking in presence and undeniable in stature, it naturally earns respect. Whether celebrated or envied, it never goes unnoticed—and the piece we introduce today is no exception.


Lights, camera, action.



The origins of the double-breasted jacket


Before being the sister of the single-breasted jacket, the double-breasted jacket descended directly from the pea coat. Inspired by this short naval coat with a double-breasted placket, it emerged in its modern form in the mid-19th century. Crafted from lighter cloth, it retained the ingenious closure that allowed sailors to button their woollen coat left or right depending on the wind.



Prized more for its aesthetic power than its wind-blocking qualities, the double-breasted closure has fascinated landlubbers for nearly 200 years. Over time, it has graced the shoulders of gentlemen across generations, stepping aside only to return with renewed vigour a decade later.



Rowers from prestigious English universities, Royal Navy officers, actors, aristocrats, lovers of classical elegance, politicians, gangsters, champions of dandyism, Wall Street wolves, sartorial connoisseurs: many are those who have succumbed to the charms of the double-breasted jacket over two centuries of history. And to tell you the truth, we understand why.



Anatomy of an exceptional jacket


Like the suit jacket, the “double-breasted jacket” is a tailored piece featuring a front opening and two lapels across the chest. However, it is distinguished by a distinctive crossover fastening where one side gracefully overlaps the other. Beyond the visual impact, this closure entails a unique construction that shapes the signature character of the double-breasted jacket:


  • Its lapels are typically wider. In keeping with balanced proportions, double-breasted lapels often approach 10 cm in width, whereas single-breasted lapels rarely exceed 7 to 8 cm.


  • It favours peak lapels. While notch lapels are standard on single-breasted jackets, double-breasted versions naturally favour peak lapels. Once again, it is a matter of visual harmony: this lapel shape perfectly mirrors the deep “V” of the neckline.


  • The button configuration is key. A double-breasted fastening means buttons on both sides of the jacket—a detail rich in nuances. To keep things simple, two layouts dominate: 6x2 and 4x2 (spoken “six on two” and “four on two”). The first number indicates total visible buttons, while the second refers to functional fastening buttons, the rest serving to ensure visual symmetry.



Our double-breasted jacket for Autumn-Winter 2025


For the upcoming season, we have crafted a splendid double-breasted jacket, infusing it with the core attributes of the Hast wardrobe. You will find the elegance and beauty inherent to this striking piece, alongside the honesty, precision and versatility that define each of our designs.



Honouring classical codes, we opted for a traditional 6x2 double-breasted closure opening onto generous 10 cm peak lapels. Parallel to the vertical lapel seams, two Milanese buttonholes provide refined symmetry. Meanwhile, the shoulders feature a soft, natural drape subtly reminiscent of Italian tailoring. Below, a pair of flap pockets adds structure to the lower half, while the subtle Prince of Wales check brings refined elegance and understated sophistication to the piece.



And there is more. You know the importance we place on eco-design and exquisite finishing details, and we set the bar particularly high for this model. Crafted from 100% pure wool woven in Italy, it features a half-canvassed construction made in Portugal.



For those unfamiliar with half-canvassing, it is an exacting tailoring method that attaches a canvas chest piece inside the jacket to ensure greater durability, full flexibility and a natural drape across the chest. A significant detail typically reserved for much higher price points.



The finishing touch: we added an internal fastening strap inside the jacket. A traditional tailoring detail that ensures a truly flawless drape.



The subtle art of wearing a double-breasted jacket


At first glance, many men would be tempted to see it as the most formal of formal jackets. The upper-body equivalent of double-pleat trousers, if you will. And yet.


And yet, the double-breasted jacket works just as effortlessly in a more relaxed context as a separate. Simply create a clear contrast between top and bottom by pairing it with more casual trousers. We chose light corduroy here, though raw denim or coloured chinos work equally well.



Naturally, formal attire remains the native territory of the double-breasted jacket, and nothing complements it better than a crisp dress shirt, a fine tie and a pair of pleated trousers.



When it comes to footwear, it all depends on your chosen direction. For a casual chic look, minimalist trainers offer a clean, relaxed touch. If you opt for full elegance, a pair of well-polished leather shoes is essential. As for loafers, their unmatched versatility speaks for itself.



A final word


Born of the pea coat and sister to the single-breasted jacket, an icon of tailoring that thrives outside its comfort zone, an aesthetic masterpiece and a menswear essential: the double-breasted jacket is one of those legendary garments that elevate dressing to an art of living.


Crafted from 100% pure wool, half-canvassed, woven in Italy and tailored in Portugal, our Autumn-Winter 2025 iteration borders on poetry. Certified natural materials, traceability, local sourcing, exacting cuts and meticulous attention to detail: We poured all of Hast's craftsmanship into this cornerstone of our wardrobe, and hope it will soon take pride of place in yours.