Is it even possible not to love it? Soft and thick, warm and comforting, generous and substantial, flannel is one of those fabrics that bring a singular touch of soul to the pieces they dress. At Hast, we have always had a soft spot for this noble material, to which we dedicate, collection after collection, a place of choice, both on our rails and in our hearts.
A brief history of a misunderstood fabric
From everyday speech to the most technical jargon, the use of the word "flannel" almost always raises questions. And with good reason: the meaning of the term has evolved considerably over time. Initially referring to wool itself ("gwlanen" literally meaning "woollen" in its native Wales), it then went on to describe the woollen fabrics used in textiles and upholstery before coming to encompass all brushed fabrics with a soft, fuzzy feel.
Once woven from carded wool, sometimes combed, and always brushed to achieve its familiar fuzzy finish, flannel is understood today less as a raw material than as a manufacturing technique. For this reason, nobody is surprised to find cotton flannel—or even synthetic flannel—nowadays, something strictly unthinkable before the 19th century.
Much like denim, flannel's success has grown far beyond its original definitions, distancing its name from its initial properties.
Flannel today
In the contemporary sense of the term, and regardless of the fibre used, flannel is therefore a plain- or twill-weave fabric, brushed until it achieves a soft, velvety texture. This characteristic brushing gives flannel, alongside its famous felted finish, distinct properties that make it an invaluable winter ally: warmth, softness, insulation, comfort and reassurance.
By playing with weave tension, yarn diameter, or brushing techniques, flannel can take on very different forms: loose and airy, dense and fleece-like, or crisp and textured. For this reason, it lends itself just as effortlessly to trousers, shirts, and jackets (to name just its achievements in modern tailoring). Versatile and multifaceted, a fabric of a thousand faces each cosier than the last, you will find it dry and closely cropped on a suit, or generous and lightweight on a shirt—and vice versa. Depending on its thickness and density, whether it is made from wool or cotton, worn next to the skin or layered, and the desired look, it can appear smooth or brushed, reminiscent at times of velvet and at others of sea foam.
Flannel in the Hast wardrobe
For those of us with a passion for textured pieces, flannel (and its distinctive character) is an absolute must. Unsurprisingly, we have given it pride of place in our wardrobe, for your greatest pleasure. At Hast, you will find it here and there, across various garments, always in all its glory:
- First, on our shirts, rendered in a fine, smooth fabric to wear next to the skin. Finished with a button-down, mandarin, or hidden-button collar, plain or patterned, and offered in a handsome palette of autumnal shades, these pieces are designed to bring a little softness to your winter wardrobe—and to the world. If you too find it hard to leave the duvet between October and April, these soft cotton, cotton-linen, or cotton-Tencel weaves will quickly become your best allies.
- Next, on our thick shirts and overshirts, crafted in a heavier fabric. Designed to layer effortlessly over a long-sleeved t-shirt, a sweatshirt or a jumper, they reach their full potential when layered. Military-inspired, structured with chest pockets, or imagined as winter-weight versions of our Oxford styles, we have developed a rich range built to withstand the dropping temperatures.
- On our trousers, crafted in more compact woollens designed to dress the legs. Pleated navy or uniquely flecked, you are free to choose them understated or more distinctive, instantly bringing a quintessentially British chic to your outfits.
- On our suits, to look sharp even in the depths of winter. And with good reason: the wool flannel suit is the perfect answer to keeping formal style warm. While others let elegance hibernate at the first sign of cold, you need only slip on your grey flannel two-piece, or its navy flannel counterpart, to prove that falling temperatures need not mean falling standards. Not for you, at least.
Focus on our chalk stripe suit
Not content with having invented the modern suit (thank you, Beau Brummell), our British neighbours also forged the legend of the striped suit. A cornerstone of formal attire in the 1920s, it was loved in equal measure by bankers, businessmen, politicians, and gangsters of every stripe. Flashy and a touch bold, it fell into obscurity after the Second World War before making a strong comeback in the 80s and even more so in the 90s. Widely associated with wealth and Wall Street style, this resurgence was short-lived, fading before the turn of the millennium.
It is only recently that this pattern has made a notable comeback, thanks to less stern and austere designs. Playing with cut, contrast, line spacing or the colour of the stripes, 21st-century striped suits break free from their bourgeois heritage with particularly appealing flair.
Drawn to the DNA of this piece, balanced between pure classicism and extravaganza, we wanted to include it in our Autumn-Winter 2024 collection to carry on the tradition.
Worn as a complete two-piece with a poplin shirt and silk tie, you reach the height of refinement. Paired with an unbuttoned denim shirt over a t-shirt, it shifts towards a casual-chic tone that works just as effortlessly. By separating your suit, the possibilities expand even further: pair your flannel trousers with a work jacket, or your striped jacket with your favourite jeans (for example).
A final word
Flannel reigns supreme. Crafted in wool, cotton, or more unusual blends, it envelops the wearer in a comforting, cocoon-like embrace. Elegant and distinctive, it can be thick and plush or fine and smooth, but always wonderfully soft. Gracing our shirts as well as our trousers and suits, it is both a love letter to versatility and a case for texture. Everything we love at Hast, and everything you love about us.
