Is it even possible not to love it? Soft and thick, warm and comforting, generous and substantial, flannel is one of those fabrics that gives a unique extra soul to the pieces it adorns. At Hast, we have always had a soft spot for this noble material, for which we reserve, collection after collection, a special place, both on our racks and in our hearts.
A short story of a misunderstood woman
From everyday language to the most technical jargon, the use of the word "flannel" almost always raises questions. And for good reason, the meaning of the term has evolved considerably over time. Initially referring to wool itself ("gwlanen" literally meaning "woolly" in its native Wales), it then characterized the woolens used in textiles and furnishings before encompassing all brushed fabrics with a plush appearance.
Once woven from carded wool, sometimes combed, and always brushed to achieve the fluffy effect we know it for, flannel is nowadays understood less as a material than as a manufacturing technique. For this reason, no one will be surprised to find cotton flannels today - or even synthetic flannels - which was strictly unthinkable before the 19th century.
Like denim , flannel's success has largely exceeded its initial attributes, thus decorrelating its name from its primary characteristics.
Flannel today
In the contemporary sense of the term, and regardless of the fiber used, flannel is a fabric worked in plain or twill weave, brushed until it obtains a soft and velvety texture. This characteristic brushing gives flannel, in addition to its famous felting, special properties that make it a formidable ally in winter: warmth, softness, insulation, comfort and reassurance.
By playing with the tension of the weave, the diameter of the threads or the brushing technique, flannel can then take on very different forms : loose and fluffy, dense and fleecy or even nervous and shaggy. For this reason, it dresses trousers , shirts and jackets with the same ease (to name only its feats of arms in the modern clothing sector). Versatile and polymorphous , a fabric with 1,001 faces, each one softer than the last, you will find it as dry and close-cropped on a suit as abundant and airy on a shirt - or vice versa. Depending on its thickness and density, depending on whether it is wool or cotton , whether or not it touches the skin of its wearer, depending on the expected visual effect, it can be milky or disheveled, sometimes imitating velvet and sometimes foam.
Flannel in the Hast locker room
For those of us who are passionate about textured pieces, flannel (and its strong character) is a must-have. Unsurprisingly, we've reserved a special place for it in our wardrobe, for your greatest pleasure. At Hast, you'll find it here and there, on this or that garment , always in majesty:
- First of all, our shirts are available in a fine, smooth material to wear next to the skin. Flanked by an American, officer , or hidden button collar, plain or patterned, and available in a lovely array of autumnal shades, these creations are designed to bring a little tenderness into your winter wardrobe - and into this brutal world. If you (also) find it hard to leave the duvet between October and April, these beautiful cotton, cotton-linen, or cotton-Tencel duvets will quickly become your best allies.
- On our thick shirts and overshirts , then, worked in a heavier fabric. Designed to support a long-sleeved T-shirt, a sweatshirt or a sweater , these exploit their full potential in layering . Military-inspired, structured by chest pockets or imagined as the "winter fur" versions of our oxford models, we have made sure to publish a rich range, proof against the assaults of the thermometer.
- On our trousers , crafted in more compact wools designed to dress the legs. Navy blue with pleats or singularly chipped, you will have the leisure to choose them very sober or more original, imtely bringing to your outfits a very British chic.
- On our suits , to stay dressed to the nines even in the harshest of winter. And for good reason, the wool flannel suit is a perfect solution to save formality from hypothermia. While others will put elegance into hibernation at the first sign of cold, you'll only have to take your gray flannel two-piece suit, or its navy flannel counterpart, out of its cover to show that the drop in the mercury doesn't mean a drop in refinement. Not at home, at least.
Focus on our chalk stripe suit
Not content with inventing the modern suit (thanks, Beau Brummell), our British neighbors also forged the legend of the pinstriped suit. A key piece of formal dress in the 1920s, it was indiscriminately adored by bankers, businessmen, politicians, and gangsters of all stripes. Ostentatious and a bit flashy, it fell into oblivion after the Second World War, only to make a strong comeback in the 80s and even more so in the 90s. Widely associated with financial affluence and Wall Street style, this resurgence was short-lived, running out of steam before the end of the millennium.
It's only recently that this pattern has made a notable comeback, thanks to less serious and austere creations. By playing with the cut, the contrast, the spacing of the lines or the color of the stripes , the striped suits of the 21st century are freeing themselves from their bourgeois heritage to take a particularly tasty turn.
Moved by the DNA of this garment, between absolute classicism and extravaganza , we wanted to integrate it into our autumn-winter 2024 collection to perpetuate its tradition.
Worn as a single piece with a poplin shirt and a silk tie , you will be touching the height of delicacy. In addition to a denim shirt open over a T-shirt , you will move the cursor towards a more casual chic register which will work no less admirably. By mismatching your suit, the range of possibilities increases even more since you can associate your flannel pants with a work jacket , or your striped jacket with your favorite jeans (for example).
The final word
Flannel reigns supreme. Made from wool, cotton, or more unique blends, it envelops its wearer in a cocoon-like cloud of tenderness. Elegant and distinctive, it can be thick and fluffy, thin and creamy, but always beautifully downy. Dressing our shirts, trousers, and suits in our wardrobe, it's a declaration of love for versatility as well as a plea for texture. Everything we love about Hast, and everything you love about us.
