It was July 1919 when publisher Maxwell Perkins agreed to publish the debut novel of a certain F. Scott Fitzgerald. This Side of Paradise appeared a few months later, painting alongside its protagonist Amory Blaine the portrait of a bewildered youth drowning the traumatic memory of the Great War in jazz and revelry. From the very first chapter, readers of the soon-to-be leader of the Lost Generation discovered a word never before committed to paper: "T shirt".
The history of an icon
Beyond the anecdote lies a historical reality that sets the stage for the story of this cult classic. It was indeed on the shoulders of American servicemen that the T-shirt as we know it today had its first defining moments. Drawing inspiration from the wool flannel undershirts favoured by the British Royal Navy, the US Navy designed a short-sleeved cotton knit and made it an official uniform undergarment in 1913. A descendant of medieval nightshirts and early one-piece undergarments like the Long John or Union Suit, this crew neck knitwear piece naturally took its name from its iconic "T" shape.
At the time, the T-shirt was still merely an undergarment, and sailors required formal permission to wear it on deck without a jacket or shirt. Only after the war did it return to civilian life alongside returning servicemen, who began wearing it as a standalone piece. It took just weeks for athletes and youth to recognise the garment's potential, and even less time for Fitzgerald to include it in the wardrobe of his hero on his way to Princeton.
Throughout the first half of the 20th century, brands such as Hanes, Sears, and Fruit of the Loom competed for control of this burgeoning market, striving to shake off the t-shirt's ingrained reputation as mere "underwear".
Even more than advertising, it was (once again) wartime that sealed the "tee's" legendary status. This time for good. Worn by GIs and bolstered by wartime imagery, it came to embody an image of American strength and triumph across the globe.
This front cover, particularly daring for its time, played a significant role in liberating the t-shirt and cementing its place in a composite cultural imagination: quiet strength, triumphant masculinity, the American way of life, and more.
Following the global conflict, cinema would—as so often—elevate the garment to legendary status. In a similar vein, it captivated audiences worldwide on the shoulders of Montgomery Clift (A Place in the Sun, 1951), Marlon Brando (The Wild One, 1953), and James Dean (Rebel Without a Cause, 1955).
Ambiguous and enigmatic, a hybrid of sleepwear and military issue, praised by some and frowned upon by others, the t-shirt firmly established itself as an essential wardrobe staple in the 1950s and 60s. Tolerated before it was fully embraced, it gained ground as an "outershirt", stepping out into plain view.
Out in the open, it unleashed its full potential, emerging as a genuine space for expression that brands, organisations, and collectives were quick to seize upon. Imtely following its rise to prominence, it became a medium for communication: election campaigns, political statements, protest slogans, marketing initiatives, witty messages—everything was an opportunity for personalisation, and the plain t-shirt quickly gave way to its screen-printed counterpart. To its iconic design was added a dimension of personal ownership and self-expression, further cementing the legendary status of this peerless piece of knitwear.
Born from a natural pairing of comfort and function, the t-shirt can rightly be considered an ultimate staple. Over 110 years of existence—in its modern form, at least—it has fulfilled every role, to the point of becoming emblematic of an industry caught in hyper-production. From undergarment to combat uniform, sportswear staple to workwear base, promotional canvas to symbol of protest, badge of belonging and social signifier, dyed, faded, printed, or embroidered, produced by ultra-fast fashion as well as the finest luxury houses, it has evolved over the decades into the world's best-selling wardrobe essential.
Intertwined more closely than any other with modern apparel manufacturing, the trajectory of the t-shirt reflects exponential growth and the challenges inherent to it: offshoring driven by cost margins, a lack of traceability, reliance on cheap raw materials (synthetic or inferior in quality), poor labour practices, the strain on natural resources and energy, as well as land, water, and air pollution.
Today more than ever, the t-shirt embodies both the finest craft of garment-making and its darkest excesses. A cornerstone of every wardrobe and a symbol of hyper-consumerism, produced by the billions each year, it seems capable of the very best and the worst—which is why Hast has set out to restore its honour. And yours in the process.
Anatomy of the t-shirt
As you will have gathered, a t-shirt is a short-sleeved knitted garment that owes its name to its "T" shape. That said, several elements can vary from one t-shirt to another, making it difficult to find two identical pieces:
- The fabric: originally made from wool and later cotton, the contemporary t-shirt draws on a vast selection of fibres. Across the wider industry, polyester and cotton dominate, but linen, hemp, merino, ramie, and various man-made fibres (such as lyocell or viscose) offer compelling alternatives and blends. At Hast, we work exclusively with natural raw materials, which is why organic cotton and linen remain our fabrics of choice.
- The fit: historically cut close to the body, the t-shirt did not stay confined to its undershirt beginnings, experimenting with different volumes over the decades. We have seen it oversized and relaxed (notably in the 1990s), as well as long and slim. For our part, we prefer to honour its most classic, well-balanced proportions: a regular fit that drapes cleanly over the hips, looking effortlessly sharp whether worn tucked into trousers or left out.
- The collar: rectangular for Royal Navy sailors, round for the US Navy, occasionally V-necked—almost anything is possible on a t-shirt collar. By adjusting its shape, depth, and construction, one can achieve a range of distinctive styles to suit different occasions. On our rails, however, you will find nothing eccentric: our collars are crew neck, impeccably proportioned, and constructed with the utmost care. In our view, it is simply the finest balance of elegance, comfort, and versatility.
- Sleeve length: one look at the photograph of Marlon Brando confirms that vintage sleeves were remarkably short. They sat well above the bicep with a somewhat unflattering curve. Given that it was originally worn as an undergarment, there was little reason to question the fit, but it is clear that such a cut would feel out of place today. Too short or too long, sleeves can easily throw off the proportions of a silhouette (just as the horizontal bar of the "T" cannot change length without disrupting the eye). You will find that ours fall neatly around mid-bicep, which we consider the ideal length.
- The construction: unlike a shirt, a t-shirt is knitted (rather than woven). Because of this, it can be knitted in a single piece—without side seams—using specialised circular knitting machines. In this case, it is termed "tubular". Otherwise, panels of knitwear are sewn together in a traditional cut-and-sew method, leaving visible side seams along the torso.
- The details: breaking free from the underwear category, the t-shirt soon made its mark in terms of creativity. Screen prints, embroideries, chest pockets: all have found their place on the most famous piece of knitwear. At Hast, understatement and timeless elegance are woven into our DNA, which is why we curate our collections with measure and restraint. That said, we are never afraid to take a subtle creative detour, whether by weaving our values into the heart of our t-shirts or by adding that little extra touch of character.
- The colour: it is no secret that advances in textile dyeing have unlocked an infinite spectrum of shades. A truly universal garment, the t-shirt is no exception. From vintage tie-dye movements to our modern palettes, the relationship between colour and this wardrobe icon runs deep. At Hast, we work with timeless shades alongside bolder tones, drawing on diverse craftsmanship. On the one hand, nothing could be more natural than our no-dye pieces, which are completely undyed. On the other, we use distinct dyeing methods to bring our coloured garments to life: garment dye involves dyeing the finished piece after assembly, lending it a subtle, lived-in feel; yarn dyeing and piece dyeing, by contrast, offer a much more uniform shade. Depending on the tone of your outfit, each brings its own distinct character.
The Hast t-shirt: our approach
Of the 100 billion new garments sold worldwide each year, the t-shirt consistently tops the list. Having gradually become the symbol of disposable fashion and hyper-consumerism, its mass production has drawn mounting concern: the use of low-grade fibres, heavy consumption of natural resources, water and soil pollution, and unfair working conditions for farmers and garment workers.
Faced with the humanitarian, health, and environmental toll of the industry, we felt it essential to offer our customers a respectable, responsible alternative. As outlined in our guide to identifying a quality t-shirt, we have refined every step of our production chain to ensure an impeccable garment in every respect. 100% natural fibres for your well-being and the planet's, certified materials that meet our social and environmental standards, a substantial fabric weight for strength and longevity, a clean, versatile colour palette pairing no dye and garment dye, and European tailoring by artisans we know personally: lasting guarantees allowing you to invest with confidence and peace of mind. That, too, is what honesty is all about.
The distinct story of the polo shirt
Today, it would be easy to mistake the polo shirt for a simple t-shirt finished with a shirt collar. Yet their origins are entirely distinct and well worth a closer look. While the t-shirt has European roots, one must look to India to trace the beginnings of its counterpart. Specifically, to the polo fields, where an elite equestrian sport imported from the Central Asian steppes was played. Under the influence of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, players shortened the sleeves and hem of their shirt, added buttons to the collar to keep it from flapping in the wind, and—almost by accident—invented the "polo shirt".
Brought back to Europe by British players, it wasn't until the 1920s that French tennis player Jean-René Lacoste gave the garment its definitive silhouette.
Over a century, its fundamental appeal has remained unchanged—the true mark of a heritage staple.
At Hast, we design it in keeping with this storied heritage, combining the ease of a t-shirt with the refinement of a shirt. Whether in short sleeves in organic Supima cotton or long sleeves in merino wool, you are sure to find your ideal piece.
Two ways to style the t-shirt
A brief detour aside, let us return to t-shirts. As far as we are concerned, there are only two ways to wear them: on their own or layered.
In the former case, depending on the desired mood, you can opt for clean simplicity or a bolder accent. Summer is typically the ideal season to wear a t-shirt on its own, offering the perfect opportunity to experiment with different shades. From the quintessential (and enduring) white tee to more colourful options, you need only try them to find your preferred palette.
In the second case, the styling possibilities are far broader. Here, the t-shirt returns to its classic heritage, taking on a supporting role. That said, it is by no means reduced to mere underwear stricto sensu; rather, it serves as a foundation for layering. A refined way to stand out with understated ease.
Layered under a shirt and/or a work jacket or blazer, it reveals something far more intentional: an appreciation for relaxed elegance, effortless confidence, and the art of casual chic.
Caring for your garment
Like all base layers worn next to the skin, the t-shirt is one of those garments that should be laundered after every wear. Fortunately, it is relatively easy to care for with just a few standard precautions. At Hast, we recommend washing your garment inside out in the machine (to protect the outer surface from friction) and keeping the spin cycle to 400 or 600 rpm. Depending on the fabric, you may opt for a gentle cycle, keeping the temperature at 30°C or below. To prevent misshaping and preserve colour, dry flat away from direct sunlight. Ironing is entirely straightforward, provided you choose the right heat setting based on whether your garment is linen, cotton, or wool. Nothing overly complicated, yet essential all the same. Following these simple steps can double or even triple the lifespan of a t-shirt—no small feat for one of the most frequently discarded garments worldwide.
A final word
Part tribute, part sartorial appreciation and fashion history, we have retraced the storied journey of the t-shirt and its place at Hast. A true wardrobe icon, it is today the most sold clothing item in the world, with all the virtues and compromises that distinction entails. True to our values of integrity and responsibility, we design honest, long-lasting pieces crafted to elevate production standards. Timeless silhouettes, noble natural materials, 100% European tailoring, and refined finishes: our t-shirts deliver enduring elegance, letting you wear a classic with complete peace of mind.
