Between Hast and the shirt, the love story has been unfolding for ten years. A decade-long passion expressed month after month in every colour and every fabric, from our first white poplin to our recent corduroys, ripstop and seersucker.
All of them? Not quite, in truth. For this reason, we promised ourselves we would develop a special weave for our tenth anniversary. A brand-new, unprecedented weave, never seen before. Given the range of shirts developed in recent years, the challenge was considerable. So was the ambition!
As the purpose of our anniversary capsule collection is to offer you a selection of iconic limited-edition pieces, we were keen to take you into the world of high-end shirtmaking with a model unlike any we have made before.
More than a declaration of love for the central piece of the men’s wardrobe according to Hast, this “Intelligent” shirt is a true invitation to travel.
Everything you need to know about its construction?
First stop: the fabric.
From day one, we have placed natural materials at the centre of our model and at the heart of our garments. As the cornerstone of the Hast wardrobe, the shirt is no exception; which is why we generally make ours in cotton, linen, ramie, washi cashmere and, more recently, hemp. Wool, meanwhile, tends to favour overshirts and jackets; or at least more substantial, imposing pieces.
With the piece presented here, the aim was to put this fabric at the service of a register with which we do not usually associate it: formal elegance. To achieve this, we chose Super 120 merino virgin wool from carefully selected New Zealand sheep. It was important to us to source this wool in New Zealand, as the country has banned the practice of “mulesing” (the mutilation of sheep intended to prevent the appearance of larvae) since 2018. As a result, we offer you “mulesing-free” wool that combines animal welfare with the classic virtues of merino: fineness, length and softness.
Once spun, this extra-fine virgin wool (Super 120’s for the curious) is woven in Italy into a supple, silky cloth with a unique hand. Combined with the natural properties of merino wool, this high yarn count and dense weave give the fabric impressive qualities: it is lightweight, breathable, absorbent, beautifully satin-like, thermoregulating and dries very quickly. Qualities worthy of techwear that explain athletes’ fondness for merino wool… and reveal why we nicknamed this beauty “The Intelligent One”.
Second stop: luxurious construction.
Beyond the nobility of the material and the originality of the fabric, it is the richness of the construction that makes up the other half of this shirt’s charm. For the occasion, we drew on foundations usually reserved for our premium shirts and brought together elements of extreme finesse.
Let us start at the beginning: this half placket as graceful as it is intimidating. Directly inspired by the Popover shirts created in the 1960s (from the English “pop over”, evoking pulling it on over the head), this opening ending halfway down the chest embodies the height of relaxed elegance. A false twin of the piqué polo shirt, the Popover is a credible alternative to the traditional shirt and established itself as such on the shoulders of American students in the Ivy League. Taking centre stage on ours are three mother-of-pearl buttons sewn zampa di gallina, rising towards a generous button-down collar.
Finesse and elegance are also found at the cuff, with a double pleat and rounded cuffs in a clean, effective design. In a happy contrast, two mother-of-pearl buttons stand out, allowing you to adjust the opening as you wish.
For the colour, we opted for a deep, dark green. Understated, serious and distinguished, this shade can take centre stage or fade into the background in favour of another piece. Wear the shirt with white five-pocket trousers or light pleated trousers and you will see it take the spotlight; cover it with a jacket or blazer and it will gracefully step aside to let its companion shine. More than a garment, elegance is an attitude.
A shirt as graceful as it is intimidating
A legacy of prestigious American campuses, the Popover shirt leaves a trail of audacity, irreverence, freedom and nonchalance. Reworked in every possible way for more than half a century, in an infinite variety of fabrics and fitted with every conceivable collar, it took a subtle approach to develop the one worthy of joining our capsule collection.
Ultimately, we feel we have found the right proportions by creating a shirt that is both rigorous and relaxed. While the materials used, its button-down collar and its colour break free from traditional codes, the finesse of its construction reintroduces elements of traditional shirtmaking. This balance, enhanced by the properties of an exceptional fabric, makes the merino shirt suitable almost anywhere and almost anytime.
Under a light suit, it will bring an offbeat note that single-handedly refreshes the apparent austerity of the ensemble. With a pair of jeans or chinos, it will refine your look with a welcome twist between the classic shirt and the polo shirt. Tucked into shorts, it will be just as at ease, perhaps with the sleeves rolled up.
Ultimately, its versatility allows the intelligent shirt to adapt effortlessly from formal to more relaxed outfits, all with flair and originality. Above all, the technical qualities of its fabric make it a valuable ally throughout all four seasons, which is welcome for a garment you will never want to take off.
How do you care for a merino shirt?
Our merino shirt is intelligent enough to make life easier right down to its care. Incredible but true, it can be machine-washed at up to 30 degrees, quite a feat for a wool garment. When you want to wash it, simply turn it inside out and place it in the drum (unbuttoned if possible), then select a delicate cycle. Naturally, bleaching and tumble-drying should be avoided, as should dry cleaning - far more polluting and energy-intensive without being any more effective. As for ironing, a pass with an iron at around 140 to 150°C will smooth it out while you wait for your next trip for two.
