La chemise mérinos, "l'intelligente" - 02

The merino shirt, “the intelligent one” - 02

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Between Hast and the shirt, the love story has been written for ten years . A decade-long passion combined over the months in all colors and materials , from our first white poplin to recent velvet, ripstop and seersucker.

All? In truth, not quite. For this reason, we promised ourselves to work on a special armor for our tenth anniversary . A brand new armor, new , never seen before. Considering the range of shirts worked in recent years, the challenge was great. Ambition too!
The purpose of our anniversary capsule collection being to offer you a selection of emblematic pieces in limited edition, we were keen to take you into the world of haute shirtmaking with a most unusual model from us.

More than a declaration of love for the central piece of the men's wardrobe according to Hast, this "Intelligent" shirt is a real invitation to travel.

Everything you need to know about making it?

First stop: the material.
Since day one, we have placed natural materials at the center of our model and at the heart of our clothes. As the centerpiece of the Hast wardrobe, the shirt is no exception; which is why we generally work ours in cotton, linen, ramie, washi cashmere and more recently hemp . Wool, for its part, reserves its favors more for overshirts and jackets; or at least more massive and imposing pieces.

With the piece presented here, the project was to put this material at the service of a register with which we do not generally associate it: formal elegance . To do this, we have chosen super 120 virgin merino wool from carefully selected New Zealand sheep. It was important for us to source this wool in New Zealand, given that the country has banned the practice of “mulesing” (mutilation of sheep intended to prevent the appearance of larvae) since 2018 . In fact, we offer you here a “mulesing free” wool which combines animal well-being with the classic virtues of merino: fineness, length and softness .

Once spun, this extra fine virgin wool (Super 120's for those curious) is woven in Italy until a unique, supple and silky canvas is obtained. Combined with the natural properties of merino, this high count and dense weave offer the fabric impressive capabilities: it is light, breathable, absorbent, nicely satiny, thermo-regulating and dries very quickly . Features worthy of techwear that explain athletes' affection for merino wool... and reveal why we nicknamed this beauty "The Intelligent One" .

Second stop : a luxurious confection .

Besides the nobility of the material and the originality of the material, it is the richness of the tailoring which makes the other half of the charm of this shirt. For the occasion, we started with bases usually reserved for our premium shirts and brought together elements of extreme finesse .

Let's start at the beginning: this half-button placket that is as graceful as it is intimidating. Directly inspired by the Popover shirts designed in the 60s (from the English "pop over", representing putting on over the head), this throat ending at mid-bust embodies the height of relaxed elegance. A false twin of the pique polo shirt, the Popover functions as a credible alternative to the traditional shirt and has asserted itself as such on the shoulders of American Ivy League students. Featured on ours are three zampa di gallina-stitched mother-of-pearl buttons rising to a generous button-down collar.

Finesse and elegance are also found at the bottom of the sleeve, with a double pleat and rounded cuffs with a sober and effective design. In a happy contrast, two mother-of-pearl buttons come off to allow you to adjust the opening as you wish.

Color-wise, we opted for a dark, deep green . Discreet, serious, distinguished, this color can play the leading roles just as it knows how to fade into the background in favor of another piece. Wear the shirt with a white five-pocket or light pleated pants, you will see it take on all the light; cover it with a jacket or blazer, it will have the delicacy to slip away to let its partner express itself. More than a dress, elegance is an attitude .

A shirt as graceful as it is intimidating

A legacy of prestigious American campuses, the Popover shirt leaves in its wake a scent of audacity, impertinence, freedom and casualness. Cooked in all the sauces for more than half a century, in an infinity of materials and adorned with all possible and imaginable collars, we had to play finely to develop the one that deserved to be included in our capsule collection .

Finally, we seem to have put our finger on the right proportions by working on a shirt that is both rigorous and uninhibited . If the materials used, its button-down collar and its color free themselves from traditional codes, the finesse of its construction reintroduces aspects of traditional shirting. This balance, enhanced by the properties of an extraordinary fabric, allows you to wear the merino shirt almost everywhere and almost all the time.

Under a light suit, she will bring an offbeat note, dusting off the apparent austerity of the suit. With a pair of jeans or chinos, it will perfect your look by bringing a welcome twist between the classic shirt and the polo shirt . Tucked into shorts, it will be just as comfortable, possibly with the sleeves rolled up.

Finally, its versatility allows the smart shirt to balance its effort to flourish from formal to more relaxed outfits, all with panache and originality. Above all, the technicality of its material makes it a powerful ally four seasons a year, which is significant for a garment that you will never want to take off.

How to maintain the merino shirt?

Our merino shirt is intelligent enough to make your life easier, right down to maintenance. Incredible but true, it can be machine washed up to 30 degrees , which is a great feat for a wool garment. When you want to wash it, all you have to do is slide it inside out into the drum (unbuttoned if possible) and run a delicate program. Obviously, bleaching and tumble drying should be avoided, as should dry cleaning - much more polluting and energy-consuming without being more effective. Speaking of ironing, an iron at around 140 to 150°C will smooth it while waiting for your next trip together.

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