"Sartorial". The word carries weight. The term commands respect. The name fascinates.
Derived from the Latin "sartor" (the tailor), it gave rise to "sarto" in Italian, and then "sartoria" to denote the tailor's workshop. Much like the trattoria in culinary terms, the sartoria establishes itself as the ultimate destination for devotees of formal menswear.
Borrowed from our Italian neighbours, architects of a certain ideal of classic elegance, sartorial art denotes "any garment or accessory possessing the appeal, aesthetics or characteristics of handcrafting or tailored construction adhering to traditional tailoring standards".
In French, a single word encapsulates this approach to masculine elegance encompassing etiquette, poise, charm and craftsmanship: sartorialism.
In this article, we explore the ins and outs of this tradition by focusing our attention on a staple you know well: the shirt.
What is a sartorial shirt?
Restoring the dress shirt to its former glory: that has been the driving ambition behind Hast since 2012. Between unattainable luxury and fast fashion, we set out to offer an alternative through honest, premium and accessible garments.
By focusing on sourcing, craftsmanship and finishing details, we drew inspiration from traditional shirtmaking to design shirts of absolute precision, around which we subsequently built a complete wardrobe.
The sartorial shirt is precisely this original shirt: a shirt crafted from a 100% natural fabric, cut to perfection, assembled with the utmost care and finished with the meticulousness of bespoke tailoring.
Hast sartorial shirts
Among our shirts, many can lay claim to the title we are exploring today. As sartorialism is a delicate art, certain details must be considered to determine which designs legitimately belong to this noble category. Here are the most decisive:
- Colour. As the science of taste and refinement, true elegance leaves little room for eccentricity. Sartorialism, its expression in tailoring, naturally follows this principle. When it comes to shirts, our white designs hold a distinct advantage: their brightness and understated nature are inherently synonymous with grace and sophistication. If blue is indeed the new white—a view gaining ground among classic dressers—our blue shirts could rightfully claim that ultimate status too.
- The fabric. Depending on the chosen weave, the final shirt will display specific characteristics. As a rule, we consider fabrics to be all the more formal when smooth and lustrous. To craft a sartorial shirt, cotton poplin is the natural frontrunner, with its dense weave and subtly lustrous finish. To a lesser degree, more textured fabrics can also suit these distinguished shirts, provided they are woven from very fine yarns. Despite their texture, certain Oxford, twill or even herringbone fabrics can beautifully grace a shirt tailored to sartorial codes.
The collar. It is to the shirt what the crown is to a monarch, and must therefore be chosen with great care. Moreover, not every collar can crown a sartorial shirt—only a select few hold that privilege. Here are our favourites:
- The semi-cutaway collar: inspired by Italian sprezzatura and reinterpreted by Hast, it is the culmination of months of refining proportions and balance. Worn with or without a tie, its generous spread makes an imte impression.
- The point collar: an absolute benchmark of structure and balance, this time-tested style remains the quintessential classic collar.
- Wide collars : With their 8 to 9 cm points, they unmistakably evoke the world of fine shirtmaking. Far removed from exaggerated retro styles, they offer generous proportions and effortless distinction. By nature, they are best worn with a tie beneath a suit jacket with wide lapels, though the choice remains entirely yours.
- The wing collar: for black-tie affairs, we have also crafted this exceptionally refined collar. Designed to be worn with a bow tie, its neat winged tips are an ode to elegance. Strictly reserved for the most formal occasions.
- The tab collar: this style single-handedly embodies British sartorial refinement: sophisticated, understated, structured. Its discreet tab elevates your tie, giving it structure and presence. Welcome to Savile Row.
- The cuff. An aesthetic detail requiring particularly demanding tailoring, the double cuff allows cufflinks to be added to one's shirt. As a result, shirts featuring it instantly take on a distinct, more assertive and refined character.
How to wear a sartorial shirt
Directly inspired by tailoring traditions, our sartorial shirts are without question among the most elegant pieces in our collection. They naturally deserve to be paired accordingly—with garments of the very same standard.
When it comes to trousers, we suggest opting for refined styles such as our single-pleat trousers or our striking double-pleat trousers.
Over your sartorial shirt, you should inevitably wear a suit jacket if the weather permits. Single-breasted, double-breasted or unstructured, the choice is yours to find the one that complements it best.
Finally, do not forget to accessorise. Ties, pocket squares, bow ties, collar stays: all stand ready to complement Her Majesty the sartorial shirt.
A final word
A proud heir to formal tailoring traditions, sartorial style remains a testament to a certain ideal of dress and courtesy. De rigueur in certain professional settings and expected on specific occasions, it nonetheless remains a niche pursuit, challenged from all sides by proponents of a more casual aesthetic.
Fortunately, many sartorial enthusiasts continue to hold the line, proud to uphold a tradition where fine tailoring and good manners go hand in hand.
Leading the vanguard of this romantic resistance, the shirt embodies this passionate heroism more than any other piece. On your shoulders, perhaps?