Alongside its 3 240 wines and 400 cheeses, France has another source of pride that the whole world envies: linen.
An annual plant around one metre high, linen is a herbaceous species generally consisting of a stem bearing small spiralling leaves. At flowering time, for around fifteen days each year in mid-June, small bluish flowers bloom at its tips. Mainly grown in Normandy, Picardy, Brittany and Nord-Pas-de-Calais, this natural plant-based material places France at the forefront of global producers. Accounting on its own for almost 80% of total linen cultivation, our country is both its leading manufacturer and number-one exporter. Drawing on a favourable climate—the plant thrives in temperate, humid areas—and ancestral craftsmanship, France has established itself as the leading supplier of the most eco-responsible of textile fibres.
This is linen’s great strength: it is undoubtedly one of the most environmentally friendly materials there is. Not only does its cultivation require little water and few chemical inputs, but the successive processing stages are also low in energy consumption. Ultimately, the linen plant requires no irrigation, nor do retting, scutching, spinning, weaving and making demand significant energy investment. What is more, it is a plant whose 100% of components can be put to use, from fibres and shives to seeds and dust. Beyond its use in making fabrics, the linen plant can also be used to produce oils, mulch, fuels and paper pulp. Zero waste, then.
The virtues of linen fibres.
Beyond its environmental benefits, linen fibre has intrinsic qualities that explain the interest it holds for the textile industry:
- It is thermoregulating and insulating: often recognised as the queen material of summer, linen is indeed breathable and highly prized in the warmer months. Yet its thermoregulating properties also make it a valuable ally in winter, thanks to its great capacity to retain heat. Its fibres are hollow, allowing for optimal thermal insulation.
- It is hypoallergenic: those with sensitive skin know that linen is exceptionally gentle on delicate skin. If you are prone to tingling, itching, redness and other signs of hypersensitivity, linen is just what you need.
- It is (incredibly) absorbent: while linen fibre requires little water, this is partly thanks to its exceptional absorption capacity. Not only can it absorb up to 20% humidity without appearing saturated, it also dries at lightning speed. In summer, linen is unsurprisingly public enemy number one for sweat marks, and a valuable ally for staying dry throughout the season.
- It is “self-cleaning”: thanks to the structure of its fibres, linen prevents dust mites and bacteria from clinging to it. The same applies to dust, allowing it to stay clean and healthy for longer.
- It is exceptionally hard-wearing: dry and rustic in appearance, linen also stands out for its remarkable strength. It withstands heat and cold, does not pill, does not stretch under the effect of humidity, is virtually tear-proof, very easy to care for, and becomes softer over time and with successive washes. In short, we are talking about a material that comes close to perfection. Between us, it is no coincidence that it eventually gave us the word “linen”.
- It creases a little, a lot, passionately: without embarking on a lesson in plant biology, let us simply recall that heat and humidity tend to “loosen” linen fibres, which then set in a new position. On the surface of the fabric, this reaction physically manifests itself as a creased appearance. That is a fact. Is this verdict irreversible? The answer is no, and we have worked with several parameters to limit this natural phenomenon. On the one hand, we chose fabrics with a higher-than-average density, meaning heavier and therefore less prone to creasing. On the other, we opted for cotton-linen blends on certain models, so that the elasticity and softness of the former offset the rigidity of the latter. That should reassure the most sceptical among you. And if your linen garment creases a little, try not to make too much of it: it is also part of its charm, and our Italian friends do not hesitate to celebrate this relaxed elegance under the name “sprezzatura”.
Our love letter to linen.
Natural and environmentally friendly, local and biodegradable, strong and lightweight, supple and durable, linen is undoubtedly one of the most responsible materials in the textile world. Given our ambition to build a men’s wardrobe around an ethic of elegance, awareness and timelessness, no one here will be surprised to see this fibre taking an increasingly prominent place in our collections. Particularly present in the spring-summer 2023 creations, linen is finding its place in the sun at Hast and features at the heart of our most iconic pieces:
- Our linen trousers: every discerning man knows that not all trousers are equal when the mercury rises. Raw denim and other heavy five-pocket styles then become persona non grata, and that is precisely when our linen trousers take centre stage. Sophisticated legwear, cut from a lightweight, airy material: that is their promise, to maintain a chic silhouette even in the height of summer. In pure linen or blended with cotton, our creations offer a wide range of possibilities, from more formal to more relaxed pieces. While pleated and darted models openly draw on tailoring codes to pave the way for elegant looks, cotton-linen chinos combine the softness of the former with the breathability of the latter to offer versatile, relaxed variations. Between the distinction of white linen trousers and the precious versatility of their coloured counterparts, the choice is yours (or not).
- Our linen shirts: long-sleeved or short-sleeved; button-down, band, Cuban or cutaway collars; dark, bright or heathered colours; with or without breast pockets; we have imagined a truly remarkable range of linen shirts for you. Sometimes blended with other fibres to combine their properties, this fabric brings to the formality inherent in every shirt a note of lightness that almost borders on nonchalance. Organic cotton and linen, linen and ramie, 100% pure linen: so many variations for so many occasions, allowing you to adjust the dial of informality as you please. From the classic ecru model to the striped short-sleeved shirt, via “Riviera”-inspired popovers, there is no doubt you will find the one(s) you will not be able to do without.
- Our linen jackets: contrary to a (slightly too) widespread belief, it is perfectly possible to wear a jacket all year round, including in June and July. To convince you, our men’s linen jackets have been made in their finest fabrics to promise you absolute lightness. Two, three or six buttons, a Nehru collar or a notch lapel, patch or welt pockets: here too, you can choose the one that suits you best to enjoy the warmer months at the height of sophistication. All without fearing perspiration.
- Our linen T-shirts: for the reasons mentioned above, incorporating linen yarns into a fabric gives it strength, suppleness and breathability. For the same reasons, we chose to enrich our wardrobe with a superb range of men’s linen and cotton T-shirts. 235 gr/m2, a dependable, airy jersey, and a colour palette inspired by summer tones: these are the ideal knits, to wear on their own or layered.
Your linen trump card.
Although it accounts for only 2% of global production of textile fibres, far—very far—behind cotton, linen remains this age-old natural material whose benefits have remained unchanged for millennia. Virtuous from cultivation to use, this entirely usable plant is a wonderful eco-responsible alternative to the raw materials that dominate the textile industry. Unsurprisingly, Hast rolls out the red carpet for this worthy plant species and gives it an increasingly prominent place in its wardrobe. While 31% of our garments contained it last year, half of our creations incorporate linen in our spring-summer 2023 collection. An opportunity to (re)discover the 1 001 powers of this remarkable fibre, kind to the planet, your skin and your style.
