At Hast, we strive to reinvent the classic men's wardrobe through precision and honesty. Since 2012, our mission has been as simple as it is demanding: to breathe new life into formal style by updating its definition, proportions, materials and manufacturing techniques. With this in mind, we develop our collections with the utmost care, from the pieces we offer and their cut to their colour identity. In this latter respect, “garment dye” and “no dye” processes naturally bring all their expertise, which is why it seemed fitting to devote this article to them. Caution: fresh dyes.
The place of colour in our philosophy
A tribute to the French science of clothing, an ode to simplicity, a reverence for classicism and a memory of craftsmanship, the Hast wardrobe evokes both timelessness and the present day. Unaffected by trends and mindful of the challenges of our time, our collections tirelessly seek the balance between tradition and modernity, right down to their colours.
As a result, developing the colour palette of our garments is a major aspect of their creation, since much of their visual identity lies within it. Like the search for the right material or the quest for the perfect cloth, that of the ideal colour is as painstaking as it is important; and is most often decided by the slightest nuance. To reach for the unattainable star, we have recently added two strings to our bow: “garment dye” and “no dye”.
Garment dye, for the love of colour
Before getting to the heart of the matter, it should be noted that “garment dye” (or “teint en pièce” in French) is simply a dyeing technique.
To give a garment one shade or another, several methods coexist at every stage of its manufacture. Unlike early finishing processes applied to the fibre, yarn or rolls of fabric, garment dye is only carried out at the end of the chain, once the garment has been assembled. In practice, the item is made entirely with naturally coloured yarn (generally ecru); the dyeing operation is only carried out at the final stage.
The advantages of garment dye are threefold:
- First, it gives each piece a distinctive colour. Unlike garments woven or knitted from identical yarns, those dyed after assembly are all different, and therefore unique. From one piece to another, pigment distribution and dye penetration will not be exactly the same, giving each one singular nuances. Likewise, the way colours evolve over time will differ, giving each piece a truly original patina.
- Next, the product is fully stabilised. With the garment-dyeing process, garments go through high-temperature baths during which they shrink slightly. Once they emerge, their dimensions are set. Unlike pieces dyed using other processes, these will not move an inch when you wash them for the first time.
- Finally, garment dye allows for better management of production quantities, and therefore reliable control of production. While traditional dyeing methods involve making X pieces in each colour before they go on sale (even if that means making too many), garment dye is more flexible, as it relies on a quantity of garments known as “ready to dye”, which can quickly be given one shade or another. It is therefore much easier to adapt supply to customer demand while considerably limiting overproduction.
At Hast, the many advantages of this process won us over. The richness of the colour palette it allows, the depth of its shades, the delightfully vintage “faded” look of its hues, the suppleness and softness it gives textiles: everything speaks in its favour. So you will not be surprised to find an increasing number of garment-dyed pieces on our rails, including our chinos, shorts, t-shirts, work jackets and linen shirts.
“No dye”, or natural beauty
As their name suggests, our “no dye” pieces are simply not dyed. As a result, they retain the exact original colour of the fibres from which they are made. In addition to giving textiles a natural and authentic shade, this technique avoids the pitfalls associated with dyeing (the use of chemicals and the consumption of water and energy).
Given the responsible approach we have pursued from day one, you will easily understand why these arguments appealed to us. They align perfectly with our primary ambition: to build an enduring and conscious wardrobe by drawing locally on noble materials and exceptional craftsmanship.
By nature, the range of colours offered by this process is limited to that of the raw materials used, but “no dye” garments gain in singularity what they lose in variety. For the slightest irregularities in the fibres appear on the surface of the fabric, creating one-of-a-kind pieces. By (re)discovering our linen and cotton t-shirt, our embroidered cap or our double-pleated trousers, you will have every opportunity to see for yourself.
Two processes serving the same vision
Opposed in appearance, garment dye and no dye are two techniques that follow the same path at Hast. Indeed, their implementation in our collections embodies this perpetual pursuit of innovation, allowing us to offer a unique wardrobe where style and simplicity, rigour and expertise, commitment and responsibility coexist.
Introduced in our spring-summer 2023 collection, you will no doubt be pleased to learn that both will continue this winter, featuring in a collection we cannot wait to reveal to you. Shall we set a date?
