Whether it inspires confusion, admiration or controversy, the Mao collar leaves no one indifferent. Sometimes confused, often applauded, regularly contested, it is undeniably among the most elegant attributes of the men’s wardrobe. And among the most contentious.
With today’s piece, we take a closer look at this handsome oddity: a fascinating collar steeped in history.
The origins of the Mao collar
To find the birth certificate of the Mao collar, we must go back to China’s last imperial dynasty: the Qing. Of Manchu origin, it ruled China from 1644 to 1912, gradually imposing its cultural practices and dress codes. At court, the qipao was, for example, customary for women. A long, loose, fully covering dress, it was adorned with a high split collar in which we can readily see the ancestor of the Mao collar.
Modernised and relaxed by Shanghai fashion in the 1920s, the qipao became shorter and closer to the body under the name changshan, while retaining its celebrated Mandarin collar. Accompanying the early years of the Republic of China, it embodied a skilful blend of tradition and modernity, becoming a symbol of Chinese elegance.
In 1932, Josef von Sternberg’s “Shanghai Express” introduced it to Western audiences on the shoulders of Anna May Wong, greatly helping to forge its legend in Europe and America.
Ultimately, it was only in the middle of the last century that the Mandarin collar unofficially became the “Mao collar” ; a direct reference to the dictator Mao Zedong, founder of the tyrannical People’s Republic of China in 1949. Legend has it that the communist leader, a devotee of traditional split collars, decided to have them fitted to his military uniforms.
Ironically, Mao himself would ban the qipao in 1966, deeming it decadent and overly Westernised. Moreover, photographs showing the despot wearing the collar that bears his name are rather rare after he came to power, whereas they abound before 1949.
The name has remained, even if it is still associated with one of the greatest mass murderers in human history. As a reminder, Maoist Cultural Revolution and its “Great Leap” policy caused the deaths of tens of millions of people, between 30 and 80 million according to sources.
In France, this name was cemented by the famous Jack Lang controversy. On 17 April 1985, the Minister of Culture appeared in the National Assembly for a Questions to the Government session wearing a Mugler Mao-collar suit. Between mockery and protest, the controversy swelled and the term entered common usage for good.
The architecture of the Mao collar
A cousin of the band collar, with which it is often confused, the Mao collar differs in that it is not buttoned. Both are distinguished by a minimalism born of the absence of a fall, but the former has a buttonhole while the latter does not. Likewise, the ends of the band collar overlap, whereas those of the Mao collar keep their distance (or at most touch).
In this infographic produced by our colleagues at BonneGueule, you will readily perceive the nuance that makes all the difference. You will also note that this pair of collars is the only one that is not “turn-down”, that is to say fitted with points designed to accommodate a tie.
The Mao collar according to Hast
Simple and understated, the Mao collar is a model of discreet elegance. A worthy heir to the decorative motifs that have adorned traditional robes and Asian kimonos for centuries, it now crowns shirts of pared-back charm. Though it is not often seen, we were keen to include it in our wardrobe, out of affection for its modest, distinctive design.
By respecting its historical codes and adapting it to contemporary demands, we have crafted a Mao collar according to the rules of the art. Choice of height, calculation of the opening, balance of proportions, construction of the stand, care in assembly: every detail has been considered, mindful that such a pared-back collar can only shine through extreme precision.
A confident minimalism
If there is one collar that can claim the aphorism “less is more”, it is this one. Unlike turn-down collars whose length and shape of the points can be disorienting, the Mao style is a positively timeless staple. After half a millennium of reign, it is still very much present, approaching the next 500 years with elegance and serenity.
Set on a white two-ply poplin shirt, ours embraces absolute classicism, combining purity of line with the rigour of the cut. A masterful piece of craftsmanship in the service of incomparable refinement.
A sense of proportion
The refinement and simplicity of the Mao collar come at the cost of a certain complexity in how it is styled. While it goes without saying that it will tolerate neither a tie nor a bow tie, it is equally true that it prefers to retain a monopoly on the neck. In other words, avoid crowding it with a crew-neck jumper (which would instantly make you look ecclesiastical), a V-neck or an overshirt.
The Mao collar is visually strong and frames the throat distinctly, which is why we recommend pairing your shirt with a blazer or a suit if you are not wearing it on its own. The contrast between its unusual line and the opening of a jacket will balance the whole while bringing the styles together.
In some cases, a work jacket or tailored jacket may also be considered, provided it is worn open at the chest.
A final word
Having entered common parlance, the term “Mao collar” is now widely known and used, most often in complete ignorance of its link to the dictator who gave it his name. While we prefer the term “Mandarin collar” for obvious reasons, we use the reference to Mao here for the sake of clarity and intelligibility.
Above all, we prefer to see it as a vestige of China’s immensely rich culture rather than a political emblem, this collar having enhanced qipao for centuries before the “Great Helmsman” fell under its spell.
At Hast, the Mao collar has little concern for such considerations: it adorns our white poplin shirt only to enhance it, more discreetly than other styles but just as regally.