What are the origins of the men's jacket? Its history? Its evolution? While the jacket may seem to have been part of the male wardrobe forever, it has only accompanied men in its modern form for about two centuries. A true cornerstone of classic menswear, we owe its widespread adoption—if not its very creation—to George Bryan "Beau" Brummell. The foremost dandy and arbiter of taste during the English Regency, he is credited with replacing elaborate court dress with the suit. As the defining piece of this now-universal uniform, the jacket has continually evolved while retaining its core identity: a long-sleeved garment, buttoned at the front with an open chest.
At Hast, where our founding mission was to offer responsibly made shirts at a fair price, designing a jacket felt like a natural progression. After all, sartorial history and discerning dressers alike can hardly imagine one without the other. Mindful of its heritage, its evolution, and its relationship with the shirt, we introduced this cornerstone to our collection, developing the line with our signature care and precision.
Respect for exceptional craftsmanship
While credit for the modern suit (and its jacket) goes to Beau Brummell, tailoring as a craft followed naturally in its wake. Brummell's stylistic influence over the British Crown—the world's most influential at the time—spread the art and science of tailoring far and wide. Establishing a new silhouette was only the beginning: craftspeople around the world brought it to life, taking cues from the masters of Savile Row. Workshops flourished globally, dressing men and boys in bespoke garments for decades through traditional artisanal craft.
It was only after the Second World War, with the rise of ready-to-wear (modelled on North American methods), that handcrafting gave way to large-scale industrial manufacturing.
Since then, several tailoring approaches coexist:
- Ready-to-wear, which makes up the vast majority of the market, offers jackets made from standardised patterns and pre-selected fabrics.
- Made-to-measure, which adapts a standardised base pattern to a customer's individual measurements to construct their jacket.
- Bespoke tailoring, which involves drafting an individual pattern to the customer's exact measurements to craft a jacket perfectly attuned to their physique and posture.
As you might expect, prices increase across these tiers; and bespoke tailoring, once the norm, is now largely the preserve of luxury clientele. In any event, Hast approaches this iconic garment with great humility, mindful of the distinctions between ready-to-wear and bespoke craftsmanship. That said, 21st-century manufacturing techniques bring fresh relevance to the maxim: "Better a good ready-to-wear piece than a poor bespoke one".
With the same rigour applied to our fabric selection, European partner workshops, precise cuts, considered colour palettes, and responsible supply chain, we design our jackets just like our signature shirts and every other garment: with care, honesty, and passion.
The history of the jacket
Since its inception in the 1800s, the jacket as we know it has always favoured evolution over revolution. In this respect, the 20th century perfectly illustrates its remarkable ability to reinvent itself while remaining true to its origins.
Before 1925, the jacket remained relatively long, typically featured 3 or 4 buttons, favoured narrow, rounded shoulders, and was still finding the ideal placement for its pockets.
Couturier Jean Patou in 1924
Up until the Second World War, the silhouette became more structured: jackets grew shorter, shoulders stiffer, and pockets settled lower down the garment.
Bulletin Officiel de la Mode, c. 1930
After the war, a return to opulence brought the era of stiff, structured, almost "boxy" jackets: shoulders were broad, the waist barely suppressed, lapels relatively wide, and buttons consistently double or triple.
Gregory Peck in "The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit", 1956
Conversely, the 1960s sounded the death knell for volume and heavy fabrics in jackets: they became shorter than ever, lapels narrowed sharply, button stances dropped, waists were noticeably suppressed, and shoulders appeared cut in half.
Sean Connery as James Bond in "Goldfinger", 1965
Another shift came in the 1970s, with the iconic look you are likely familiar with. Jackets lengthened once again, lapels widened considerably, three-button fronts gave way, and prominent shoulders made a comeback. Above all, colour and bold patterns made a striking entrance.
Sears lookbook, 1977
Closer to our time, the 1980s and the famous "power suit" marked an entire generation. The trend shifted towards a lower stance throughout: lapels, buttons, pockets, and shoulders all seemed to succumb to gravity after a decade of exaggeration.
Leonardo DiCaprio's look in "The Wolf of Wall Street" illustrates this aesthetic with near-satirical precision.
In the 1990s, silhouettes found greater balance before returning, at the turn of the century, to the slim, streamlined proportions of the 1960s.
Such is the cyclical nature of fashion, turning yesterday's silhouettes into today's dated looks—and tomorrow's vintage classics. Yet the jacket is not one to be washed away by fleeting trends. While its proportions have evolved, its fundamentals have stood firm. In our commitment to creating timeless clothing, these enduring principles guide how we design our own jackets.
Anatomy of a jacket
As the timeline above demonstrates, the jacket has stood the test of time. While decades have reshaped its silhouette, none have altered its fundamental structure. From the beginning, the jacket has relied on enduring elements that combine aesthetics and function to outlast passing trends:
- two buttoned front panels
- a V-shaped neckline across the chest
- lapels flanking the collar
- long sleeves
- patch, jetted, or flap pockets
Naturally, these constants have evolved in shape, proportion, and weight, but their presence has remained unbroken.
In our perpetual search for balance between tradition and modernity, we appreciate the enduring value of these timeless details at Hast. Every piece that has stood the test of time has its own, and the jacket is no exception. In designing ours, we have preserved these elements with the utmost care, infusing them with what makes our wardrobe unique: exceptional natural fabrics, renowned European craftsmanship, and rigorous standards for traceability and responsibility. The result? Here it is.
Hast jackets
1. Our formal jackets
As the name suggests, our formal jackets are the most dressed-up pieces in our wardrobe. Business-oriented, they honour the purest tailoring traditions and feature all the classic hallmarks that forged their legacy.
You will recognise them by their subtly tailored fit, clean, understated fabrics (predominantly wool), and tailoring-inspired details: notch lapels, natural shoulders, double back vents, and jetted flap pockets. Most importantly, matching trousers are available, as they form the upper half of a two-piece suit.
NB: As a tribute to sartorial history and our enduring love for the suit jacket, we included one in the capsule collection created for our 10th anniversary. Alongside other signature staples close to our heart (such as the shirt and the work jacket), we developed a truly unique double-breasted model. Cut from Super 110s wool woven in Italy by Marzotto, it draws inspiration from a remarkable Japanese bespoke jacket. Featuring half-canvassed construction, peak lapels, flap pockets, horn buttons, and an internal jigger strap, we selected the finest fabrics and the most refined ready-to-wear craftsmanship to create a standout piece.
2. Our casual jackets
It is a simple fact: wearing a full suit is no longer the daily standard for men. Over recent years, relaxed dress codes, a desire for comfort, and shifting work patterns have reshaped the dominance the suit enjoyed since the 19th century. Yet the jacket has successfully adapted by parting ways with matching trousers to stand on its own. A cornerstone of smart casual style, the separate jacket brings a touch of elegance to an otherwise relaxed outfit.
At Hast, you will recognise these by the richness of their fabric. More character, more texture, more depth and grain: linen and cotton are crafted here to provide that nonchalant elegance our Italian friends call "sprezzatura". A considered refinement, effortless and understated.
3. Our deconstructed tailoring jackets
True to our aim of reimagining classic menswear, we introduced a collection of deconstructed tailored jackets for spring-summer. Bridging traditional formalwear and our beloved work jackets, these versatile designs combine refinement, comfort, and character.
The deconstructed tailoring and distinctive notch lapel of the former meet the patch pockets and regular fit of the latter, placing our designs at the crossroads of two worlds united by fine craftsmanship.
Never part with your jacket
An integral part of a two- or three-piece suit, worn as a separate with jeans or chinos, formal or casual, single- or double-breasted, in wool, linen or cotton, regular or fitted, traditional or reinvented, the jacket has 1,001 guises, each more appealing than the last. At Hast, we wanted to include them all in our wardrobe, offering designs suited to every occasion. Weddings, the office, the weekend: our range spans from absolute classicism to modern ease, allowing you to wear 200 years of sartorial history effortlessly.
A note on care
A specialised garment requires specialised care. Because jackets are delicate by nature, only dry cleaning is recommended. For travel, we strongly advise investing in a garment bag: it will serve you well when packing your favourite piece for a trip, or simply when storing it between seasons.
