Sébastien, what is the overall idea behind this capsule collection?
“To sum up 10 years of Hast, the story had to begin with formal shirts, continue with casual shirts and then open up to the rest of the wardrobe with work jackets, trousers, knitwear, T-shirts, accessories, etc. Ultimately, this wardrobe is one that belongs to everyone; and for me, the challenge was to consolidate and accentuate this balance in Hast’s offering. That is precisely what we tried to do with the 10th-anniversary capsule, and it is truly how I approached it. I asked myself what the ten essential pieces were that could bring pleasure, be combined endlessly and still form something coherent for everyday life for the greatest number. The idea was really to be as right as possible in terms of adaptability and versatility, without falling into extravagance. It may seem simple, but it is an approach that demands extreme rigour.”
“The story begins with shirts,” as you say, and we notice they are widely represented in this collection. Why?
“Of the ten pieces in the collection, five are indeed shirts. Why? Quite simply because they are the beating heart of the brand. What is more, it is a garment that can go in a very smart as well as a very casual direction. A shirt allows for that: a fabric, a cut, a collar can tip it one way or the other, which is extremely interesting. Typically, the denim model and the one in merino wool have almost nothing in common apart from the essential: they are shirts!”
As a designer, what appealed to you most when imagining this anniversary capsule?
“The unique opportunity, made possible by Hast’s business model, to make materials that are usually impossible to find accessible in ready-to-wear. By occasionally adapting our classic recipe — no middlemen and a fair margin — with exceptional ingredients, we have the privilege of offering, for this occasion, luxurious materials ordinarily reserved for the great Houses. It is an extraordinary opportunity, both for a designer and for the brand’s customers.”
Without revealing your secrets, can you tell us what the common thread of this collection is?
“Inspirations from the 50s and 60s are very present, but there is not the slightest ambition of ‘replica’ or ‘revival’. I love this aesthetic from another era, and it is clear that it permeates the entire collection, but it should not be seen as nostalgia or backward-looking. On the contrary, I see these influences more as the link between tradition and modernity. At heart, it is really a faux 50s–60s; a 50s–60s treatment designed to be timeless and bring that touch of refinement that gives the capsule its charm. It is also this free interpretation that blends casual and formal trends: to bridge the gap between a work jacket and a refined shirt, we needed connecting elements, readily provided by the retro aesthetic of the mid-20th century. Ultimately, these characteristic elements of a formality in the process of emancipation make it possible to bridge elegance and ease and structure the collection so that the pieces harmoniously echo one another. In my view, this coherence can be found in silhouettes that work easily together despite their different registers.”
Could you give us an example?
“Once again, it is about making details and volumes accessible that are no longer necessarily available on the market. Subtleties one would be more likely to find second-hand or among expensive niche brands. The popover collar of the merino shirt, the reissued denim of the western shirt, the lapel of the double-breasted jacket or the button-down collar of the 1960 Oxford are perfect examples: we brought them out of the past to serve contemporary elegance, and not merely out of a love of clothing archaeology. They all breathe the same retro delicacy that sets the tempo for this collection. That gives it its character. Its signature.”
Each piece in the collection comes in just one colourway. How did you determine the capsule’s colour palette to find the right balance?
“Quite simply by placing small pieces of fabric next to one another, then adjusting them to find harmony. In this case, working with exceptional natural materials creates enhanced colours, which makes the work easier. I am thinking in particular of merino, whose green is truly distinctive, of Oxford, whose blue stripe is especially vibrant, of the very authentic denim of the western shirt, or of the almost taupe beige of the trousers. The nobility of the material and the dyeing process thus come together with a process of pairing that your humble servant has tried to do well. That said, I also kept a sense of reality, without venturing into anything too extravagant. I wanted to remain true and realistic in relation to men’s overall preferences.”
Speaking of colour, is the red of the painter’s jacket a nod to that of the brand?
“It could have been… but not really! Honestly, we wanted a different denim, and by chance it was the finest one we found in deadstock at Nona Source. We were looking for structure and lightness, and this one was perfect. It just happens to be red, all the better!”
In the midst of this capsule collection, conceived as a tribute to clothing, the introduction of a tie is a bold choice. Can you tell us about it?
“It is indeed something of the collection’s extravaganza, through its accessory character and its bold colours — once again enhanced by very luxurious silk. Yet it has the potential to work with (almost) every other piece in the capsule, making it a fine companion for elevating an outfit and adding a touch of personality.”
It was impossible not to ask you this question: what is your favourite piece?
“The most personal is undoubtedly the double-breasted jacket, because I concentrated many inspirations in a single piece. Historical inspirations first, with this lapel inherited from a suit of Prince Philip (at the time); but also personal inspirations, such as the inner strap I borrowed from a bespoke Japanese jacket from my own collection. Ultimately, I put a great deal of heart and influence into a familiar and recognised piece with which it is relatively difficult to innovate. Without distorting it, since it remains a navy double-breasted, I wanted to inject an extra soul into it, making it — to my mind — very likeable and distinctive.”
Is it the one you are most proud of?
“Yes. Oops. No. I don’t know. In any case, it is the one that brings together the most things. (Laughs)”
This exceptional anniversary capsule was your first collection as a designer at Hast. Should we expect to see some of its designs again in the future?
“It goes without saying that we will not be able to work regularly with the luxurious materials offered exceptionally alongside our 10th anniversary, but it is not out of the question that certain cuts, certain collars or certain designs may join our classic collections, depending on the reception they receive from customers. The trousers, for example, offer many possibilities in terms of colours and materials, which makes us want to go further than these 100 limited-edition pieces. Incidentally, the materials we usually use in our collections are already exceptional for this price range — word of an experienced designer.”
We are going to offer this exceptional capsule collection to today’s Hast men. In your view, how are they different from those of the early days?
“It is clear that the world of menswear has evolved considerably over ten years. Since 2012, blogs have flourished and helped raise the level of knowledge about clothing. Men’s relationship with clothing is therefore no longer the same at all. For customers, this growth in knowledge translates into increasingly high expectations, which suits Hast well, as its ambition has always been to offer timeless, premium and accessible clothing. In a decade, the landscape has changed completely: our customers no longer turn to a single-product label for well-made shirts, but place their trust in a clothing brand that offers, through a complete, honest and functional range, the possibility of dressing in line with values and a distinctive style. For Hast, the difference between 2012 and today also lies in that extra soul: we do not simply offer the best product at the best price; we aim to change everyday life with coherent, generous collections celebrating quality, craftsmanship and rightness. As a designer, that is what I try to do as carefully as possible.”
If you had to describe this 10th-anniversary capsule collection in three words?
“The perfect versatile wardrobe. Well, ‘perfect’ sounds a little pompous, since I worked on it myself (laughs). Let’s say an iconic versatile wardrobe!”
Any final words?
“Dress up as you please, and do it every day! Above all, see you Friday 10 March at 10:00 on hast.fr to discover this sublime collection!”
