A monument, no less. The piece we present to you today is not only one of the first we produced at Hast; it is also, and above all, among the Immortals to have joined the Pantheon of menswear. A true wardrobe legend, it has accompanied men for more than 120 years with the same flair and nonchalance, making it one of the most iconic garments ever created. In this article, we look back at its birth, its history and the interpretation we have given it at Hast since 2012.
The mysterious origins of the Oxford shirt
As is often the case with garments that have stood the test of time, the origins of the Oxford shirt remain relatively unclear. Mysteries, grey areas and fantasies surround its exact provenance, making it as famous as it is enigmatic. With all due caution, however, we can identify four factors that have contributed to the international success of this iconic garment:
- Its fabric. Contrary to what we regularly read, Oxford cloth was not born in the English city of the same name. In fact, it first appeared in Scotland at the end of the 19th century. Keen to diversify their offering, weavers there are said to have developed original fabrics, carefully naming them after the prestigious American universities of the time (Harvard, Yale, Princeton and Oxford). With its doubled warp and weft yarns, only the last stood the test of time, giving our wardrobes a celebrated chapter of their history.
- Its collar. It is difficult to discuss the Oxford shirt without dwelling on the button-down collar generally associated with it. For the record, this pairing is said to have appeared on polo shirt fields, where players adopted this trick to keep their collar points in place during play.
The defining influence of Brooks Brothers
In 1896, a certain John E. Brooks attended a polo shirt match in England. Yet that day, it was neither the horses nor the players’ dexterity that captivated him, but rather the outfits worn by the protagonists. Made from a fabric unfamiliar to him (Oxford, from neighbouring Scotland) and topped with a generous button-down collar, he quite literally fell in love with the shirts before his eyes, to the point of bringing one back in his luggage on his return to the United States. For John E. Brooks was none other than the grandson of Henry Sands Brooks, founder of America’s oldest clothing brand: Brooks Brothers. A few months later, the brand launched the garment that would make both its legend and its success for decades to come: the OCBD (for “Oxford Cloth Button Down”). A fine intuition from Mr. Brooks, was it not?
The crowning of the Ivy League
Between 1896 and the middle of the 20th century, the OCBD (or “button-down Oxford shirt”) established itself as the queen of American sportswear. Celebrated for its versatility and comfort — a very new notion at the time — it found a second, spirited youth on American campuses. In the 1940s, students at the prestigious Ivy League universities adopted it and boldly diverted it from the use their parents had made of it. Somewhere between provocation and a declaration of emancipation, they paired it with casually formal, or formally casual, outfits. Like the loafers-and-sports-socks combination, the pairing of a coloured OCBD, tie and blazer flourished in the halls of Princeton, Cornell, Dartmouth and Columbia. A daring departure that would make the preppy style’s heyday and forever open the doors of formalwear to the Oxford shirt.
The Oxford shirt today
Celebrated for its unique fabric, unrivalled comfort and extraordinary history, the Oxford shirt has established itself as one of the foundations of any well-curated wardrobe. More than that, it could be said without exaggeration that it is the ultimate staple, the first piece to invest in when building a menswear wardrobe.
To recognise one at first glance, here is a quick guide:
- The fabric: Oxford is easily recognisable to the naked eye. With its basket weave and greater weight than poplin, this cloth has historically been woven with doubled yarns in both warp and weft, giving it a rich, generous texture. That said, the overall appearance of the fabric depends on yarn count and density: a tightly woven Oxford made from exceptionally fine yarns can look rather smooth, while a loosely woven Oxford in thicker yarns will have a more rustic, perhaps workwear-inspired character.
- The button-down collar: it has been almost a constant since the legendary OCBDs. Sometimes called an “American collar”, these buttoned points are almost inseparable from Oxford shirts. They are generally fairly generous and softly rolling, following the line of the neck to gently embrace the ends of the collarbones.
- The colour: in its early days, Oxford was woven with differently coloured yarns in the warp and weft, giving it a handsome mottled appearance. As a result, you are more likely to find coloured pastel tones (pale yellow, sky blue, pinkish or green for example) on this type of shirt, although solid colours suit it perfectly today.
They may also feature a breast pocket on the heart side, a remnant of a time when these “tobacco pockets” were used to keep a packet of cigarettes close at hand. This detail imtely places Oxford shirts equipped with one in a casual register.
Finally, look to the back for the last details specific to Oxford shirts. On one side, there is often a dart in the middle of the back to maximise comfort and encourage freedom of movement. On the other, it is not uncommon to find a small loop between the shoulder blades, where the vertical and horizontal fabric panels meet. This “loop”, said to have been invented by Elliot Gant (son of the founder of the eponymous brand), was used to hang shirts in university changing rooms without distorting the collar.
Oxford shirts at Hast
As you will have gathered, the love affair between menswear and the Oxford shirt has lasted for more than a century. For Hast, whose love affair with shirtmaking is younger but no less passionate, interpreting this masterpiece was both a duty and a privilege.
Drawing on our direct-to-consumer model, exceptional natural materials and European partners with outstanding craftsmanship, we have created three ranges of Oxford shirts to meet your every need:
- A casual range : if you are looking for a traditional OCBD, redolent of poise and ease, this is where you will find what you are after. A rich colour palette, button-down collar, patch pocket, locker loop: all the details that forged this Ivy wardrobe legend are brought together here. To mark our tenth anniversary, we even treated ourselves to reviving an iconic model from the 1960s, such is our love for this golden age of the Oxford shirt.
- A formal range : here, we find the distinctive texture of Oxford cloth, paired with smarter details. Semi-cutaway collar, angled cuffs and a close-fitting cut suggest a shirt designed to be worn tucked into trousers, perhaps with a tie. Less smooth than its poplin counterparts, it brings welcome texture to the strictest dress codes, without a false note.
- A premium range : with it, we move away from the sportswear roots of the Oxford shirt to enter the solemn, distinguished world of tailoring. By pairing Oxford cloth with our most luxurious fabrics and most refined finishes, we embrace a bold contrast that some may find daring, others disconcerting, but one we hope all will consider successful. Two-ply fabric from a prestigious Italian House, cloth designed to resist creasing, mother-of-pearl buttons sewn in “zampa di gallina”: here, you are touching the very essence of classic elegance, with a twist only connoisseurs will notice.
Another significant advantage of our Oxford shirts: they are exceptionally easy to care for. To look after them, simply machine-wash them on a delicate 30°C cycle, with the spin set to a maximum of 400 rpm. After a few hours drying on a hanger, they will be ready for ironing before setting off on new adventures. To find out more about caring for your shirts, see our dedicated article
Now it is your turn to enter the legend
From its native Scotland to our shops, via polo shirt, the American “Middle class” and the prestigious Ivy League universities, the Oxford shirt has continued to charm through the decades. As great lovers of shirtmaking, it was unthinkable that Hast would not interpret this living legend of the menswear wardrobe, which is why we have dedicated three of our most accomplished ranges to it. Casual, formal or premium: it is now up to you to choose the one that will accompany you in the years ahead.
