In Paris's 2nd arrondissement, a cobbled alleyway that never gets much light and almost looks like a dead end has become the vibrant realm sought after by food lovers from across the city and beyond. In just a few years, chef Grégory Marchand took over both sides of Rue du Nil to infuse it with the entire spirit of Frenchie, the haven for bon vivants he founded in 2009: there's Frenchie To Go—whose extraordinary pulled pork sandwich is not to be missed—the Frenchie Bar à Wines and, above all, the Frenchie restaurant, for which the chef earned a Michelin star earlier this year. As restaurants across the country get ready to reopen—finally!—it was high time to sit down with one of the most prominent chefs of the moment. Because in the kitchen, what you wear matters almost as much as flavour.
© Géraldine Martens
Back when you were studying at catering school, what uniform did you swap your everyday clothes for?
I started catering school in 1994, aged 16. Along with the other students, we wore chef’s hats in the kitchen, just like in the grand luxury hotels—later, during a stint at a London restaurant, I even wore a sort of little fabric skull cap. But what struck me most at that point in my life had nothing to do with chef gear. When we weren’t in the kitchen, we had to wear a suit every day, with a shirt and a tie. It felt incredibly strange, I can tell you. They were dreadful suits, terribly cut, bought for next to nothing from the nearest shop. I did take away one thing from it, though: that was when I learned how to tie a tie.
What does your everyday kitchen attire look like today?
It’s quite simple: it’s pretty close to everyday life. I wear washed jeans and a pair of New Balance trainers. In those, I can stand around and walk fast with ease—I can even run between the stoves. Comfort is what matters most. I must have six or seven pairs of New Balance at home. The 1997 models, to be precise. Up top, I always wear a white t-shirt. I have a batch of about twenty at home, which I renew very regularly. It’s my staple. Over that, I throw on a classic white chef’s jacket with my name embroidered on it, like most chefs. As soon as I put my jacket on, I step into character. I’m a chef, and it shows. It’s written all over my face. The design of these jackets has evolved over recent years. The cuts are more contemporary, more tailored to the silhouette. They flatter the body instead of engulfing it. Times change, just like in fashion, where streetwear has gradually replaced traditional high fashion.
As well as running the kitchen, you’re also an entrepreneur managing your businesses in Paris, along with the Frenchie restaurant you opened in London. When it comes to clothes, how do you switch from one role to the other during the same day?
I’m always on the move between the kitchens and the outside world. So it’s all about switching between my role as a chef and my role as a business owner as seamlessly as possible, without having to spend ages in the cloakroom changing my trousers and shoes. That’s mainly why I dress fairly casually, without looking too much like a chef. All I need to do is take off my jacket and put it back on whenever necessary, depending on my schedule. Nothing more. In each of my restaurants, I always have two or three jackets lying around. And you know what? I even turn up to business meetings in my chef’s jacket sometimes. I think it works. A while ago, I started thinking with my restaurants’ architect about designing a bespoke jacket made by Bragard, one of the most renowned names in the field. We wanted to create a jacket that would take the formality out of the garment. A jacket that would work equally well in the kitchen and the dining room. An everyday jacket that would have allowed me to never really change clothes. In the end, it didn’t happen. What’s certain is that when I have important meetings, I never wear a suit. I wear a fine roll neck, jeans, and English brogues. Nothing more. Suits are for my director of operations!
Help us solve a major kitchen mystery: why do some chefs wear a black jacket, whilst others prefer white?
Those who like black must think it’s slimming! Honestly, when you think about it, white isn’t always the most flattering. And then there’s the question of stains, too. With black, you worry far less about that. When you’re a chef, stains are obviously a nightmare. There are colourful purees that splatter everywhere when you use a blender. Meat jus stains are pretty formidable too, as is blood from butchery cuts. Personally, I stick to white. I find a white jacket looks pure. It goes well with the other tones in the kitchen: stainless steel utensils, shiny tiles. Never mind the stains. At home, I don’t wear a jacket or an apron when I cook. I wear a white T-shirt and get splatters everywhere, because I’m not being careful—I just cook as usual. When that happens, I have a very simple, foolproof technique: the dry cleaner.
© Virginie Garnier
Why are the jacket and, more broadly, the chef’s uniform such an important matter in the kitchen?
The kitchen is a hazardous place, and you have to be able to protect yourself. Chefs don’t wear special jackets for nothing. They have a double layer across the chest to protect against splashes of boiling water or oil. Likewise, chef jackets always feature press studs so you can rip them off in an instant if something gets dangerously hot. If you were just wearing a T-shirt, it would be quite risky: you could end up with scars for life. It’s also good to wear clogs: they’re ergonomic safety shoes that keep you comfortable whilst protecting you if a heavy pot happens to drop! As for me, I don’t wear them—perhaps because I like living on the edge!
To wrap up, what’s coming up next for Frenchie as the world finally begins to breathe again?
We’ll be ready to reopen our Parisian restaurant in June, I think. We’re getting everything ready and it feels wonderful to know we’ll soon be welcoming guests just like before! Besides that, we’re expanding Frenchie To Go, our takeaway branch. We already have a dedicated venue serving takeaway in Paris, and we’re also opening small kitchens in major French cities to deliver directly to your door via delivery apps!