In the realm of legendary fabrics, denim and chambray are kings. For Hast, whose quest for the finest materials has continued since 2012, these two fabrics are among the richest there is. Often lumped together because of their appearance, they nevertheless have their own stories and characteristics. Today, we offer you an article in the form of a tribute, in honor of these armors impervious to the passage of time.
Common origins
With all due caution, it seems reasonable to us to see chambray and denim as two descendants of medieval "fustian". In the Middle Ages, this canvas or twill type fabric generally used a cotton warp and a linen, wool or silk weft. Moreover, this is precisely what would subsequently distinguish the two iconic fabrics we are interested in.
Before going any further, a little technical reminder is necessary.
To make a fabric, horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) threads must be interwoven . To do this, three main techniques coexist, which give it different properties:
- Plain weave consists of a regular interweaving of threads. The weft thread passes alternately over and under a warp thread (and vice versa), which gives a fabric with a harmonious appearance, identical on the reverse and on the right side. This is the simplest and oldest weave.
- The twill weave is more uneven since it displays oblique ribs. These diagonals are due to a particular weaving method, where the weft passes under a warp thread and then over several others. This weave brings, de facto, more texture and relief.
- Satin weave , on the other hand, is more complex and less widespread on the market. Here, the crossing points between warp and weft are distributed more or less randomly, until they become imperceptible. The expected objective is that of a smooth and flat surface, often silky on the front and matte on the back.
Credits: Louise Magazine
In combination with the raw material and the diameter of the threads used, these different techniques have an influence on the openness, density, flexibility and resistance of the fabric.
Coming back to chambray and denim, this is the fundamental difference between these two fabrics that are so frequently confused: the first is a canvas while the second is a serge.
The amazing history of chambray
Taking its name from the French commune of Cambrai (in our current Hauts-de-France) where it was invented during the 16th century, chambray is a plain weave historically woven with linen threads . Fine and luxurious, "batiste" - to call it by its period name - was already used to make shirts , but also underwear . In the following century, the British Empire massively imported Indian cotton, a softer and less expensive material. Worked in cotton, the " scotch chambric " from across the Channel then competed with the " French cambric " dressed entirely in linen. Too expensive, the latter gradually disappeared and left its English counterpart with the monopoly on chambray . In the United States, this light and robust fabric quickly won over farmers and the working class. Crafted with an indigo warp and an ecru weft , its bluish color will inspire the term " blue collars " to designate manual workers, as opposed to white collars. Over time, chambray will thus escort cowboys, US Navy sailors, movie stars and lovers of beautiful materials.
The incredible journey of denim
More recent without being very young, denim is a twill fabric whose origins are often debated. Some associate it with " Nîmes serge ", a fabric worked in wool and silk in Languedoc in the 18th century, and whose distorted name would have given " denim ". Others see rather a lineage going back to the heyday of Italian export. Before the British Empire flooded the market with Indian cotton, it was in fact the port of Genoa that supplied the main European cities with fustians of mixed cotton, wool and linen . In the registers of the Port of London, a distortion of the name of this Ligurian city would thus have offered history the word " jeans ". Denim, for its part, would be an emanation of these Genoa fustians, worked in cotton serge for the sake of economy and diversification. As everyone knows, it was in the United States that denim would then experience its moment of glory: from the establishment of the cotton industry at the end of the 18th century , denim was one of the first fabrics manufactured on a large scale. The idea of dyeing the warp with indigo to give it its famous blue hue , coupled with the various innovations of a certain Levi Strauss, would complete its entry into the pantheon of legendary fabrics.
Hast and the interpretation of complementary materials
Often confused, chambray and denim have many things in common: invented in Western Europe, they have crossed the centuries (and the Atlantic) before conquering the world thanks to unique properties , absolute versatility , a singular texture and a color recognizable among a thousand .
Yet their differences speak for themselves and make them more complementary fabrics than similar. In fact, denim is a solid and rustic serge , more suited to trousers , jackets and thick shirts . On the other hand, the finesse and flexibility of chambray flourishes much better on a shirt .
Capitalizing on their respective characteristics, we have obviously taken care to solicit these materials in the appropriate registers when thinking about our collections. As a result, you will find on our racks:
- denim pants : from indigo selvedge jeans to our ecru 5-pocket pants , including a skillfully faded blue model , you're sure to find what you're looking for to dress your legs in the most famous twill fabric. With its inimitable diagonals, its foolproof robustness and its unrivaled versatility, you'll just have to choose yours to wear 500 years of history.
- denim shirts : first used to make work pants, denim has risen to bring its science to bust pieces. Unshakeable and resolutely workwear, our denim shirts smell of the Wild West, freedom, tradition and authenticity. Woven in Italy from very fine threads, you will have the leisure to choose your favorite wash among our raw , dark , light or officer collar models. On the occasion of our 10th anniversary, we have even imagined a limited edition model , a barely veiled homage to the now famous "western shirt" of North American cowboy boys. With its shoulder inserts, two chest pockets and snap buttons, it would almost make you want to stroll with a blade of grass in the corner of your mouth, or to treat yourself to a pair of cowboy boots.
- chambray shirts : made up of a white weft thread and an often dyed warp thread, our chambray shirts are imtely recognizable by their soft and creamy texture. Woven in a plain weave, they are identical on the front and back, with this subtly mottled blue color. Light and full of character, they combine texture and uniformity like no other. At Hast, we offer it in light blue and dark blue , but also in a more pronounced workwear style , weighted down with its historic patch pockets.
It's your turn to tame these legendary fabrics
At first glance, taming fabrics that are half a millennium old can be quite intimidating. However, you will quickly see that they are just waiting to enhance the slightest of your outfits , whatever the style. As you probably guessed, it is not for nothing that they have seduced almost all professions on all continents over the last five centuries: from the clergy to the military, including gold prospectors, workers, cowboys, craftsmen, artists or designers, their versatility is no longer in doubt .
Denim and chambray are like that: they can be worn from head to toe, together or separately, in a total look or to create a break in a dressy outfit, like Gainsbourg... or Hast.
And now it's your turn to play.