A true icon of the 70s, corduroy has been returning to the forefront in recent years. After half a century spent in the shadow of unflattering clichés, this unique, warm fabric is once again in the light, much to our delight.
As far as we are concerned, neither its old-fashioned air nor its appropriation by philosophy professors has diminished our passion for this exceptional fabric, to which we roll out the red carpet in every one of our collections.
Today, we are adding one more piece to this list of love letters. Here it is.
Corduroy, a technical feat
Before becoming a wonderfully textured fabric, corduroy is a small marvel of ingenuity. For good reason: it consists of two distinct layers woven simultaneously on the same loom, separated by just a few millimetres. The operation is impressive to watch and calls for goldsmith-like precision.
Each of these fabrics has its own warp, around which its own wefts zigzag to form the ribs, while a third warp binds the two layers together. Several thousand passes later, a sharp blade separates the Siamese fabrics, leaving the raised, exposed fibres of the third warp on the surface of each one.
A picture being worth a thousand words, we offer you this one from the Stiff Collar blog, itself worth a thousand pictures.
On either side, you can see the two layers of fabric, with their respective warps (orange) and wefts (red and purple). Between them, the third warp (teal) joins them together while awaiting the blade’s passage. Once it has passed through, the raised threads give corduroy its delightfully shaggy appearance.
The technical explanation is a little complicated (no pun intended), but at least you will have something to talk about when your ecru work jacket receives 1 001 compliments.
All the faces of velvet
As you will have understood, velvet refers less to a raw material than to a weaving technique. Like denim or flannel, it can therefore be worked with a range of fibres. On the market, you can find corduroy made from cotton, silk, wool, polyester, mohair or any other blend.
If you know of our commitment to a 100% natural wardrobe, you will not be surprised to find organic cotton velvets on our rails, combining the natural softness of this fibre with the fabric’s distinctive tenderness.
This season, we have even innovated with a 74% cotton and 26% linen corduroy, supplied by the French house Velcorex. An innovative blend for a crisp line, a clean drape and a hand full of authenticity.
Velvets: from ultra-light to heavyweight
It is no longer a secret to you: the weight of fabrics varies according to the fibre used, the thickness of the selected yarns and the density sought. The same applies to corduroy, which can be more or less substantial depending on the garment it is intended for.
As for our velvet shirts, these weights range, for example, from 165 gr/m2 for the camel model to 197 gr/m2 for its burgundy variation.
Considerably heavier, our jackets and trousers in corduroy can reach 390 gr/m2. A greater weight, but one better suited to the demands of an outerwear piece.
What is more, the width of the ribs can vary from one fabric to another depending on the desired effect. Traditionally, the number of ribs per centimetre is counted to determine whether it is needlecord, medium-wale corduroy or wide-wale corduroy. Broadly speaking, the first has around 700 ribs per metre, the second 500, and the last even fewer. The more ribs there are, the finer they are, and the more supple and fluid the fabric becomes.
You can therefore see that our shirts feature a large number of very fine ribs, while our jackets and trousers are adorned with wider, more widely spaced ribs (which are also heavier and more robust).
The palette of kings
Another string to its bow: corduroy catches the light beautifully. Not only do the valleys between its ribs offer the eye a thousand and one delightful nuances, but its dense texture also enhances dyes, magnifying palettes that are both muted and intense.
To let you enjoy it across the full spectrum, we have developed our corduroys from the lightest tones to the most wintry shades, taking in the entire rainbow of chromatic beauty.
The lustre of our undyed suit is echoed by sandier beiges, luminous camels, flamboyant browns, intense burgundies, forest greens deeper than the deepest forest, abyssal navies and utterly captivating wine lees.
Few fabrics give as generously to the eye as to the touch, and corduroy is probably the one that does so most elegantly. A glance will be enough to convince you, but much more will be needed to admire all the variations of its majesty.
Velvet, more alive than ever
Corduroy paid dearly for its moment of glory in the seventies. After a decade dressing the swirling, elegant and free-spirited 70s, it inexplicably fell into a stylistic void. Once flashy and fashionable, it became naff in the eyes of the general public, deemed old-fashioned and outdated for nearly 50 years. Go figure.
Fortunately, corduroy has not had its last word. More or less substantial, with fine or bold ribs, in the rich colours we have just mentioned, this fabric is making a comeback with us. Proof follows.
By mixing fine and wide ribs and playing with contrasts, you will create combinations that are both coherent and striking. Ideal for taking corduroy out of the staid category it is too often assigned to.
Contrasts can also come from materials. By pairing a textured velvet jacket with rather smooth trousers and a plain jumper, you will create particularly interesting plays of light. In this case, be sure to maintain chromatic consistency to preserve a sense of unity. This is the case in this composition built around shades of brown.
Some believe that the jeans-and-chinos duo is the only one capable of dressing a gentleman’s legs every day of the week. That is not so. Corduroy trousers, forgotten among the forgotten, deserve a place on the list of timeless, versatile pieces.
For a touch of offbeat elegance, have you ever considered a corduroy work jacket? Denim and pleated trousers, T-shirts and shirts with ties: it elevates every one of these companions while adding a welcome note of originality.
Caring for velvet
To care for your corduroy garments, their composition must of course be taken into account. As ours are made from cotton or cotton/linen, they can be machine-washed without issue, provided you choose a delicate programme and a mild natural detergent.
As for care instructions, we recommend a temperature of 30°C or below, and skipping the spin cycle. Air-drying (away from direct sunlight) will be more than sufficient.
One very important point: we strongly advise against ironing your corduroy garments. Heat and pressure could crush the fabric’s ribs, which would be heartbreaking. To help your pieces retain their shape, drying is therefore essential: hang your jackets and shirts on a wooden hanger, and hang your trousers by the legs, keeping the crease in place. Afterwards, you can brush it to add the finishing touches.
Now it is your turn. Love, glory and corduroy.
