This is how it is: some men have no trouble finding clothes that fit them like a glove. For others, it's a completely different story. However, there's no question of giving up! For a shirt , for example, it's possible to alter many parts: cinch it in, change the neckline, or shorten a sleeve... The frustration of not meeting the standards of the time can, ultimately, represent a great opportunity to learn to better understand and maintain our wardrobe, by taking up sewing.
Shortening the sleeves of a shirt is a relatively simple task that can be a good way to get your feet wet. And if you're not a DIY enthusiast, take the time to browse our size guide before buying a shirt from Hast.
What could be more frustrating than a well-cut garment that doesn't fit your body shape?
While shortening the sleeves of a long-sleeved shirt is not an insurmountable challenge for a beginner tailor, it does require a minimum of technique and patience. Why? Because unlike short sleeves, long sleeves do not have the same circumference everywhere. They are in fact tightened at the wrist to prevent the sleeve from sliding down the arm. But that is the only difficulty to overcome.
1. Start by unstitching the cuff with the seam ripper. If the sleeve has a tab, it will also be necessary to undo the seam. Proceed one sleeve at a time, in order to keep a pattern in case of doubt. Before taking the measurements, do not hesitate to iron all the pieces, to be as precise as possible.
2. To be sure of the result, it is better to try the piece on before shortening the sleeves of the shirt. Pin the cuff at the desired location, then put the shirt on and bend the arm slightly to keep a little margin. Trace the location with a pencil.
3. Carefully cut out the sleeve, and if necessary, lengthen the length of the slit using the placket as a template. Leave a little more than a centimeter of margin for the seam allowance.
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4. You are almost done shortening the sleeve of the shirt. Now it is time to sew the whole thing back together, starting with the placket. Take the other sleeve as an example to sew the different pieces back together in the right place.
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5. Now it's time to attach the cuff to the sleeve. This involves placing the end of the sleeve between the panels of the cuff and sewing the whole thing together. Don't forget, before finishing the topstitching, to reform the two pleats of the sleeve, using the original pleats as a guide.
And there you have it, you now have an (almost) tailor-made shirt.
Choosing the right size shirt
If you want to save yourself the trouble of getting out the sewing machine, it can be helpful to learn more about your size so you can order a perfectly fitting model straight away.
Sure, you might still need to shorten the sleeves of your shirt, but at least you'll be safe from any nasty surprises.
To take the least possible risk regarding size, opt for the classic cut.
Taking measurements from a garment
If you have clothes in your closet that fit you like a glove, you can use them as a reference, and it's slightly easier than taking your own measurements. Lay your garment flat on a table and proceed as follows:
- Chest circumference is measured using the length from armpit to armpit.
- The sleeve length, between the shoulder seam and the cuff.
- The total length is from the start of the armhole to the end of the shirt.
Take measurements on yourself
This method requires a little more dexterity, and, for ease, a mirror. The ideal is to ask someone!
- The chest measurement is taken with a tape measure passed around the torso, passing through the nipples. It corresponds to twice the length from armpit to armpit.
- The sleeve length starts from the shoulder and ends at the wrist. A point to remember if you want to avoid having to shorten your shirt sleeves.
- The neck circumference is also measured by rolling the tape measure. It is then a question of passing below the Adam's apple, then adding one centimeter to the result.