Le guide de la chemise formelle

The Formal Shirt Guide

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At the origins of Hast, there is a clear observation. A simple, clear, undeniable observation: the formal shirt is deadly boring. At the time, in 2012, you just had to open your eyes to be convinced. In the metro, under suits, on the sidewalks, the formal shirt displays the same crestfallen look everywhere. Without flight, without allure, without panache, it is there without being there; bland, insipid and too often endured.

At the origins of Hast, there is this clear observation… and the desire to change it. Definitely. In this sense, we have been working for 10 years to restore the image of this central piece of the men's wardrobe. Building on a decade of dedicated work, today we offer you the total guide to the formal shirt.

Hast, shirtmaking at the heart

Returning the formal shirt to its former glory: this is the ambition that has driven us since day one. Between inaccessible luxury and fast fashion, we wanted to introduce an alternative worthy of the name with high-end and affordable shirting . By eliminating intermediaries and capitalizing on sourcing, manufacturing and finishing, this is what we have managed to do over time. With 100% natural materials , European manufacturing by recognized artisans and great attention to detail, Hast offers men what they barely dared to dream of: high-end shirting, accessible, responsible and available in all sizes. The sizes. The challenge now is to find the one that suits you among our formal shirts

Wear the formal shirt

As its name suggests, the formal shirt instantly brings a certain touch of formality to an outfit. Visually and symbolically, it elevates any style to heights of elegance and sophistication. In fact, major occasions and other ceremonies constitute its natural habitat. Wedding, job interview, important meeting, formal dinner: she will be comfortable everywhere. Combined with a beautiful suit, under a vest or not, in this context it will embody a classic sartorial philosophy based on sobriety, simplicity and refinement.

Paradoxically, the comfort zone of the dress shirt extends well beyond these special meetings. In a more casual look, it will not strike a false note and will on the contrary bring a welcome hint of elegance. This is the magic of the formal shirt: its incredible ability to add chic to everyday life as well as to exceptional outfits. Mix, twist, dare: you have (almost) no chance of making a mistake. Online or in store, there is bound to be a men's shirt for you at Hast.

Which cut to choose?

When it comes to fit, we know that there are two schools for men... and we wanted to satisfy everyone. All our formal shirts are therefore offered with two cuts , classic or fitted , and are obviously available in all sizes. The classic cut is the straighter and more traditional of the two. It is also, by the way, the most versatile. It will adapt to all body shapes without molding you.

The fitted cut will be more fitted. It will highlight slender and slender physiques while remaining close to the bust. Tighter than its sister at the waist, it clearly advocates a modern silhouette that will appeal to fans of close-fitting outfits.

The pass stage

Let's not disguise it: a quality collar is to a dress shirt what icing is to cake. To vary the pleasures and registers, several options are available to you; from the most classic to the most adventurous. Sure value, assertive style, note of originality? It's up to you to choose from these creations, each more sophisticated than the last.

The semi-cutaway collar : Hast's signature, this represents the culmination of months of work to achieve the ideal proportions and perfect balance. With or without a tie, its generous opening will be noticed at first glance. Bold, unique and sure of himself, it will suit those who are just as confident.

The French collar : an absolute model of structure and harmony, this one has proven itself and remains, over time, the classic collar par excellence . Under a jacket or in the open air, its graphic panels with clean lines will flourish with all-tricolor class. Cock-a-doodle Doo.

The buttoned collar : popularized across the Atlantic, the “button-down” (as our North American friends call it) is a great reference for the casual chic wardrobe. Versatile, modular, practical, it distances itself from the formal register and claims a certain relaxation . Its sportswear origins - it comes to us from polo players who could no longer stand vol-au-vent collars - are there to remind us. Lovers of preppy looks: go for it!

The collar : Hast has been campaigning for his return for years... and it took the intervention of the Peaky Blinders for him to come back to the forefront. Thank you to the Shelby family, therefore, for the reintroduction of this very pretty collar with its minimalist design and indisputable elegance . To wear without a tie, of course.

The Mao collar : in the same spirit as its officer colleague but open at the throat, the Mao collar is another way to vary the pleasures. Simple without being simplistic, you shouldn't come across this one on every street corner.

Large collars : for fans of classic sartorial elegance, we have also imagined a range of “large collars” (8 to 9 cm). Without falling into the caricature of “pie servers”, these offer more breadth and volume. In essence, they are more intended to wear with a tie and under a suit jacket with wide lapels, but nothing obliges you to do so. Buttoned or not, Italian or not: the choice is yours!

The unmistakable wing collar : ceremony required, we have also worked on this collar to the height of chic. Intended to accommodate a bow tie, its short triangular flaps are a true tribute to delicacy. Combined with a beautiful tuxedo, it will allow you to properly honor (very) special occasions: weddings, cocktails, gala dinners, etc.

And more : English tailor collar, club collar or hidden button collar, we offer other atypical models that will appeal to the most demanding among you.

Find the right fabric

Let's talk a little, let's talk fabric. Fabric is the material obtained following a weaving operation, which involves interweaving horizontal and vertical threads (called warp and weft). Depending on the preferred technique, the final result will be different and the characteristics of the fabric will not be the same. Without one being “better” than the other, each will have its particular advantages, which is why it must be chosen carefully according to the desired use . Let us specify here that at Hast we only work with noble natural raw materials . This is eco-responsible fiber, in every sense of the word.

To assemble a formal men's shirt, the most frequently used fabric is cotton poplin . With its tight and regular weave, it offers a light, strong and silky fabric that fits perfectly into dressy outfits.

The Oxford, for its part, is slightly more casual. The warp and weft threads are doubled, resulting in a hand- textured fabric that is rougher and drier than poplin. Popular in the United States for the famous “casual Friday”, it will appeal to lovers of Ivy League elegance.

In the family of textured fabrics, twill is not left out. Recognizable by its beautiful diagonals (the same as on denim), its twill weave is relevant on a formal shirt to provide thickness and consistency. Enough to introduce a subtle twist to your most dressy outfits. Significant advantage: it is very easy to iron.

Another seasoned fabric worked in a serge weave: herringbone . Here too, the idea is to shift the warp and weft threads to obtain a particular grain. If the twill collects diagonals, the chevron displays magnificent sawtooth : a pattern indiscernible from a distance but sublime to admire up close.

Crowned “queen material of summer”, linen has thermoregulatory properties which make it, counter-intuitively, an excellent ally 12 months a year. Pure or mixed with cotton, we have relied on it to produce fresh and original (over)shirts. Nothing better than its delicately rustic appearance to dynamise an overly demure look. We have also decided to integrate linen into our materials for formal shirts (to be discovered this summer).

You understood: the fabric of a formal shirt plays the role of a cursor to take it sometimes towards absolute classicism and sometimes towards more singularity. Smooth or textured, silky or dry, thick or thin, you just have to decide according to the occasion… or the mood of the moment.

Vary the pleasures with colors and patterns

In addition to quality fabric, colors and patterns are interesting parameters to modulate on a formal shirt. Given the range at your disposal, the hardest part will probably be choosing. In terms of color, we (obviously) declined the sacrosanct white… but not only that. At its side, you can choose from beautiful shades of blue, pink, gray, red or even green. As mentioned previously, the chosen material will offer these shades unique reflections and depths.

To go even further, you can choose from a wide range of patterns, from the simplest stripes to the most assertive checks.

A word about our premium shirts

A beautiful , high-end and accessible shirt is the fundamental promise that Hast made to men. With our premium shirts , we invite you to take the next step and set foot in the world of haute shirtmaking. Capital finishes, all sizes available, exceptional fabric from prestigious houses such as Thomas Mason: you are in touch with what is best from us. With different weaves, colors and patterns on the menu, we offer our premium models to purists wanting to take the shirting experience up a notch…

Maintaining your formal shirt

So that it accompanies you as long as possible, we conclude this total guide with some suggestions related to the care of your formal shirt. Regarding washing , you can obviously put it in the machine, preferably on a classic program at 30°C with moderate spinning (600 rpm maximum). Depending on the collar chosen, remember to remove the stays before this operation.

Once clean, we recommend drying your shirt (buttons closed) on a wide-shouldered hanger, preferably wooden or plastic to avoid rust marks. We strongly advise against tumble drying, as the heat could damage the fibers. Regarding ironing, select the mode corresponding to the material being treated (more or less hot depending on whether it is wool, cotton or linen) and place a layer of fabric between the iron and your shirt to avoid possible marks left by the sole. Otherwise, a trip to the eco-friendly dry cleaner for dry cleaning will do just as well.

Up to you

Cut, collar, fabric, color, pattern, size: we've just gone through the key elements of any formal shirt worthy of the name. From now on, you have all the cards in hand to choose the one that will best suit the use you wish to make of it. Until then, the entire Hast team remains at your disposal to advise you as best as possible and answer all your questions.

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