Le guide de la chemise formelle

The dress shirt guide

8 min read

At the origins of Hast lies a clear, undeniable realisation: the dress shirt had become terribly uninspired. Back in 2012, one only had to look around to see it. On the commute, under business suits, on the street, the dress shirt wore the same lacklustre expression everywhere. Devoid of flair, character, or poise, it was simply there; bland, uninspired, and worn out of obligation.

At the origins of Hast lies a clear, undeniable realisation… and the drive to change things. For good. In this spirit, we have spent the past 10 years working to restore the reputation of this cornerstone of the masculine wardrobe. Building on a decade of dedicated craftsmanship, we now bring you the complete guide to the dress shirt.

Hast, shirtmaking at heart

Restoring the formal shirt to its rightful place: that has been our driving ambition from day one. Between unattainable luxury and fast fashion, we sought to offer a genuine alternative with high-end shirtmaking that remains fair and accessible. By eliminating middlemen and focusing on sourcing, tailoring, and exquisite finishing, we have achieved just that over time. With 100% natural materials, European craftsmanship by renowned artisans, and meticulous attention to detail, Hast offers men what they previously could only hope for: high-end, accessible, responsible shirting across all sizes. The challenge now is finding the one tailored to you among our dress shirts

Wearing the dress shirt

As its name suggests, the dress shirt instantly brings a refined touch to any outfit. Visually and sartorially, it elevates any wardrobe to heights of elegance and sophistication. Naturally, formal events and celebrations are its native home. Weddings, interviews, key meetings, black-tie dinners: it fits seamlessly into every setting. Paired with a sharp suit, with or without a waistcoat, it embodies a classic sartorial philosophy grounded in restraint, simplicity, and refinement.

Paradoxically, the versatility of a fine shirt reaches far beyond formal occasions. In a more casual ensemble, it feels right at home, lending a welcome touch of effortless elegance. That is the beauty of the dress shirt: its remarkable ability to bring refinement to daily life as well as milestone events. Mix, adapt, experiment: you can hardly go wrong. Online or in-store, there is always a men’s shirt waiting for you at Hast.

Which fit to choose?

When it comes to fit, we know there are two schools of thought among men… and we set out to cater to both. All our dress shirts are therefore available in two cuts, classic or fitted, and naturally come in all sizes. The classic cut is the straighter and more traditional of the two. It is also, incidentally, the most versatile. It adapts to all builds without clinging.

The fitted cut is closer through the body. It complements lean, slender builds by sitting neatly against the chest and torso. Tapered at the waist, it creates a contemporary silhouette that appeals to those who prefer tailored, close-fitting garments.

Choosing the collar

Make no mistake: a well-crafted collar is to a fine shirt what the finishing touch is to a masterpiece. To suit every style and setting, several options are available, from the timeless to the bold. A reliable classic, a strong style statement, or a subtle touch of distinction? The choice is yours among these impeccably considered designs.

The semi-cutaway collar: a Hast signature, this collar represents months of precision work to achieve impeccable proportions and balance. With or without a tie, its generous spread makes an imte impression. Bold, distinctive, and self-assured, it is made for those who share the same spirit.

The point collar: a paragon of balance and proportion, this time-tested design remains the quintessential classic collar. Worn under a jacket or open-necked, its clean, structured lines carry undeniable French poise.

The button-down collar: popularised across the Atlantic, the “button-down” (as our North American friends call it) is a true staple of the smart casual wardrobe. Versatile, adaptable and practical, it steps away from formal dress codes and embraces a certain relaxed ease. Its sportswear origins—inherited from polo shirt players who needed collars that would not flap in the wind—are a fitting reminder. Ivy and preppy style enthusiasts: look no further.

The band collar: Hast had championed its return for years… and it took Peaky Blinders to bring it back to the forefront. Our thanks go to the Shelby family for reintroducing this handsome collar with its minimalist line and unquestionable elegance. To be worn without a tie, of course.

The mandarin collar: in the same vein as the band collar but open at the neck, the mandarin collar is another distinctive way to vary your look. Understated without being plain, it is a piece you will not see on every corner.

Large collars: for aficionados of classic sartorial elegance, we have also created a range of generous collars (8 to 9 cm). Far from cartoonish proportions, they provide balanced volume and presence. Naturally designed to be paired with a tie and worn beneath a suit jacket with wide lapels, the choice remains entirely yours. Button-down or spread: take your pick.

The timeless wing collar: essential for black tie and formal occasions, we have designed this collar with quintessential elegance. Crafted to accommodate a bow tie, its neat folded points are an ode to refined tailoring. Paired with a sharp tuxedo, it is the natural choice for life’s grandest moments: weddings, galas, and black-tie dinners.

And more: English spread, club collars, or hidden button-down styles, we offer distinctive designs for the most discerning wardrobes.

Finding the right fabric

Let us talk fabric. Fabric is the material created through weaving, interlacing horizontal and vertical yarns (known as warp and weft). Depending on the technique chosen, the end result varies, giving the fabric its distinct characteristics. Rather than one being inherently “better” than another, each offers unique advantages, which is why it should be chosen thoughtfully according to its intended use. It is worth noting that at Hast, we work exclusively with noble, natural raw materials. That is the essence of true eco-responsibility, in every sense of the word.

When tailoring a men’s dress shirt, the most frequently used fabric is cotton poplin. With its tight, even weave, it creates a light, durable, and silky cloth that pairs seamlessly with formal tailoring.

Oxford, on the other hand, leans slightly more casual. Its warp and weft threads are paired, creating a textured fabric with a crisper, more tactile feel than poplin. Celebrated in the United States for classic casual Fridays, it will delight fans of timeless Ivy League style.

In the world of textured fabrics, twill is a standout choice. Recognisable by its distinctive diagonal lines (the same found in denim), its twill weave is ideal on a dress shirt to provide substance and structure. It adds a subtle twist to your most formal attire. Another significant benefit: it is remarkably easy to iron.

Another refined weave crafted with a twill structure: herringbone. Here too, the warp and weft yarns are shifted to create a distinctive texture. While twill features diagonal lines, herringbone displays striking zigzag patterns: discreet from afar, yet remarkable up close.

Crowned the “ultimate summer fabric”, linen possesses thermoregulating properties that, counterintuitively, make it an excellent choice all year round. Pure or blended with cotton, we rely on it to craft fresh, distinctive shirts and overshirts. There is nothing quite like its subtly rustic texture to add character to a classic outfit. We have also introduced linen into our dress shirt collection (to be discovered this summer).

As you will have gathered, the fabric of a dress shirt sets the tone, steering it towards pure classicism or greater individuality. Smooth or textured, silky or crisp, substantial or lightweight, the choice is yours depending on the occasion… or your mood.

Exploring colours and patterns

Alongside quality fabric, colours and patterns are wonderful nuances to explore with a dress shirt. With the selection available, the hardest part will likely be choosing. On the colour front, we have naturally offered the essential white… and much more. Alongside it, you will find rich shades of blue, pink, grey, red, and green. As mentioned, the chosen weave lends these hues unique depth and lustre.

To take things even further, you can choose from a wide range of patterns, from subtle stripes to bolder checks.

A word on our premium shirts

A beautiful, high-end shirt that remains accessible: that is the founding promise Hast made to men. With our premium shirts, we invite you to take the next step into the world of fine shirtmaking. Impeccable finishes, all sizes available, and exceptional fabrics from prestigious mills such as Thomas Mason: this is the finest expression of our craft. Offering diverse weaves, colours, and patterns, our premium range is designed for purists looking to elevate their shirting experience…

Caring for your dress shirt

To ensure it stays with you for years to come, we conclude this guide with a few care recommendations for your dress shirt. For washing, you can safely machine wash it, ideally on a standard 30°C cycle with a gentle spin (maximum 600 rpm). Depending on the collar style, remember to remove the collar stays beforehand.

Once clean, we recommend drying your shirt (buttoned up) on a wide-shouldered hanger, preferably wooden or plastic to prevent rust marks. We strongly advise against tumble drying, as the heat can damage natural fibres. When ironing, select the setting tailored to the fabric (cooler or warmer for wool, cotton, or linen) and place a protective cloth between the iron and your shirt to prevent any shine. Alternatively, a visit to an eco-friendly dry cleaner will do the job perfectly.

Over to you

Fit, collar, fabric, colour, pattern, size: we have covered all the key components of a true dress shirt. You now have everything you need to choose the style best suited to your needs. In the meantime, the entire Hast team remains at your service for styling advice and any questions.

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