Contrary to what one might think looking at men's legs today, a few dress trousers still stand their ground against the reign of jeans and chinos.
Rare and distinctive, these pieces remain no less remarkable… and noticed. Among them, Gurkha trousers hold a special place; and it is with our interpretation of this design that we officially launch the Autumn-Winter 2025 collection.
The Gurkha, the short history of great trousers
Historically, the Gurkha takes its name from the soldiers of the eponymous Indian ethnic group. In the early 19th century, they distinguished themselves through their bravery by courageously holding out against the East India Company’s British Army. Outnumbered three to one, short of food and ammunition, they held firm during the Battle of Kalunga and even managed to retreat into the surrounding mountains.
Impressed by the heroism of the Nepalese mercenaries, the British forces included a clause allowing them to recruit Gurkhas in the Treaty of Sugauli signed in 1815 with the King of Nepal. To this day, the Royal Gurkha Rifles remains a unique regiment within the British Army.
Among these soldiers’ kit, one finds the "kukri", a formidable curved-blade knife, but above all the Gurkha trousers. Instantly recognisable, they stand apart from their counterparts thanks to their double-strap fastening that acts as both belt and side adjusters. Devoid of belt loops, this clever waistband allows for millimetre-precise adjustment for optimal comfort. Combined with a high waist, a straight leg, double pleats, and a large pocket on the left leg, this construction enhanced comfort and freedom of movement, leading to its adoption by the British Army.
Gurkha trousers according to Hast
Aiming to offer exceptional garments for your daily life, Hast opens its Autumn-Winter 2024 collection with pleated trousers loosely inspired by the Gurkha.
By offering our own take on this military menswear icon, we have created a versatile piece that is decidedly more peaceful and elegant. While maintaining its general spirit and balanced proportions, we infused a tailoring touch that evokes love rather than war.
As you can see, its belt is not strictly that of the Gurkha. We deliberately swapped the double strap for a wide double-button belt, a dressier alternative that is easier to unfasten.
You may have noticed that belt loops are nowhere to be seen on our Pasteur, which is why we added side adjusters reminiscent of the Gurkha fastenings. An elegant and practical way to adjust the fit at the waist.
In addition, we have preserved certain historical details such as the pleats, the high waist, and the regular fit. The major changes lie elsewhere: in the fabric on one hand, as we selected a grey 100% wool cloth; and at the thigh on the other, where we did away with the bulky patch pocket of vintage models.
All in all, these are the sharpest trousers in this collection. With their distinctive fit, prominent features, and finishes bordering on sartorial artistry, they offer your legs a one-way ticket to true dandyism.
If you are tempted by the journey, here are a few styling suggestions below.
How to wear our trousers?
A reimagined Gurkha, the Pasteur is undoubtedly a statement piece. Its wide waistband with side fastening, side adjusters, double pleats, and front crease make it a truly remarkable pair of dress trousers. We therefore suggest styling it with more understated pieces from the classic tailoring repertoire.
For tops, several options are available. A simple t-shirt could work, but we feel a shirt better suits the spirit of the Pasteur. In particular, a dress shirt seems ideal, tucked into the trousers to showcase the striking waistband. Since wool already provides texture, you can opt for a smooth fabric like poplin, and a white shirt to create contrast. If you fancy, a fine tie can elevate the whole look; after which you need only choose a jacket (or even a work jacket) to complete the outfit. Or not.
If you find this ensemble too formal, nothing stops you from turning to our casual shirts. These can be worn untucked from the trousers, unbuttoned over a vest or buttoned up. In this register, our preference goes to denim or chambray styles, textures that pair perfectly with wool. A western shirt, for example. What do you think?
Sharp as they are, our trousers loosely inspired by the Gurkha also lend themselves to more casual outfits. Paired with a fine jumper and a relaxed cardigan, you will create an interesting look that exudes effortless style without looking untidy.
When it comes to footwear, we would recommend leather shoes in every circumstance. With its straight leg and sharp crease, we feel the Pasteur wouldn't pair well with trainers, but that is simply our view.
A final word
A modern take on the Gurkha, our wool trousers combine bold character and elegance to capture the essence of versatility. At ease in understated looks as well as more directional ensembles, they will bring a sophisticated touch to any outfit you put together.
Made in the European Union with certified natural fibres, they embody the values of Hast and launch an autumn-winter collection designed as a promise: a renewed commitment to honesty, high standards, and beauty.