La chemise denim, "l’authentique" - 03

The denim shirt, "the authentic one" - 03

4 min read

Here is another living legend of the men's wardrobe, whose history has been forged over the decades. To trace the origins of the western shirt, we must probably go back to the early 19th century, when North Americans began to lay claim to the territories of the West. The encounter between conquering and indigenous peoples, driven by the former's desire to reach the Pacific, was often bloody and unfortunate. At the margins, cultural mixing and the cosmopolitan nature of the outposts enabled the emergence of hybrid craftsmanship. It was in this context, apparently, that the western shirt came into being in the second half of the 19th century. Born of traditional vaquero shirts (the shirts of Mexican cattlemen, generally in lightweight cotton or silk) and the blue serge uniforms worn by Confederate soldiers, it is said to have evolved to meet the needs of cowboys settled on newly conquered land. From Mexican shirts, it retained its mythical design, combined with the robustness required of any workwear worthy of the name.

Denim, introduced to the USA by a certain Levi Strauss, who came to profit from the gold rush, would enable this fusion of style and durability. By the end of the century, the western shirt had found the recipe for success: a thick, comfortable cotton fabric suited to workers' needs, a regular fit and long length to stay tucked into trousers while riding, snap fasteners to prevent sewn buttons from being torn off during manual work, and chest pockets designed to hold tools. Practical, dependable, affordable, the western became a true work garment without shedding the Mexican influences inherited from vaquero shirts.

Everything you need to know about how it is made?

Like jeans, former work trousers designed for North American miners, the western shirt gradually left the ranches behind to make its way into cities. Film stars and, later, music stars played no small part in this “urbanisation”. Produced in a wide range of materials to satisfy city dwellers, this cult piece lost some of its lustre, shedding most of its distinctive features along the way until it became a simple denim shirt. For our tenth anniversary, we wanted to offer you ten ultra-premium limited-edition pieces; which is why we wanted to do justice to the western shirt. If you know the bond between Hast and shirts, you know how important it was to us to restore the reputation of this legendary piece.

More than a garment, it is an element of world heritage at stake; a piece of history we wanted to bring back to life.

For this occasion, we were able to draw on the expertise of an Italian weaver to reissue an iconic fabric used by a famous American brand in the 1960s. Made from organic cotton, this soft blue denim fabric exudes authenticity and offers a quality unlike anything else on the market. Paired with this prestigious serge, whose hand will delight connoisseurs, we refined every detail to revive the spirit of the western shirt: snap buttons, American placket, generous point collar, chest pockets with pointed flaps, shoulder yokes, a fairly straight and rather long cut.
True to its identity, our denim shirt brings a two-century-old story into the present through almost impossible-to-find materials, high-end finishes and authentic details.

A versatile piece to wear on every occasion

It is a defining characteristic of legendary pieces: they exert an enduring power of fascination across time and space. From the shoulders of cowboys to yours, via those of James Dean and Elvis Presley, the western draws its captivating charm from a composite history and a design impervious to change.
Born of a ceremonial piece and a military garment, raised tough in a violent yet hopeful Far West, celebrated from the seventh art to the fourth, the DNA of the western shirt is rich, multifaceted, sublime. Does it draw its versatility from this complex heritage? Undoubtedly, which is why you can wear it in every circumstance.
To shake up the formality of a suit, add texture to an outfit deemed too plain, embrace a total denim look or a military register with chinos and a blazer, it will do the job. Ultimately, the hardest part will be getting hold of one of the 100 pieces we are offering in a limited edition.

How should you care for the denim shirt?

At the time, it seems unlikely that cowboy lads bothered to wash their shirt every other day. Should you wish to give yours a spring clean, we recommend washing it in the machine at 30°C (maximum spin speed 600 rpm) and drying it on a wooden hanger in a well-ventilated area. If you can avoid direct sunlight during this process, you will prevent possible fading over time. As for ironing, you can press it at medium heat if you wish, preferably placing a piece of fabric between the iron and the denim.

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