A true armour against the cold, the Duffle Coat is probably the ultimate winter coat. Less popular than some of its counterparts, it is nonetheless famous, the fruit of a fascinating history and a symbol of very British chic.
For the first time this season, HAST offers a personal interpretation of this wardrobe icon , at the crossroads of elegance and performance.
Story of an unsinkable coat
Inseparable from that of its wool, the history of the Duffle-coat begins in Belgium, in the region of Antwerp. From the 15th century, the small town of Duffel made a name for itself by weaving dark woolen cloths of exceptional thickness and density.
Renowned throughout Europe, it was copied as far away as England, where a certain John Partridge had the idea of using it to dress his coats in 1887. Featuring a fitted hood, shoulder inserts, rope buttonholes and large patch pockets, these are clearly the ancestors of the contemporary Duffle coat.
Insulating and particularly warm, they attracted the favor of the Royal Navy, which decided to equip its sailors with them at the end of the 19th century. However, it was not until the end of the Second World War that they would experience global success, after the English manufacturers Harold and Freda Morris bought the British army's stocks to resell them to civilians. The success was such that they launched their own brand by giving the Duffle-coat more modern finery, particularly in terms of cut.
The Duffle Coat according to Hast
The Crown Jewel, the Duffle Coat is one of the emblems of British elegance. Its structure, its proportions, its volume, its material, its fabric, its color: everything speaks in the name of this singularly codified aesthetic, between rigor, precision, grace and discipline.
True to our ambition to create exceptional clothing for your everyday life , we wanted to interpret this flagship piece from across the Channel, taking care to inject it with the precision and balance characteristic of the Hast wardrobe.
A real bulwark against the cold, our Duffle-coat is crafted from solid wool cloth with a density of 400 gr/m2. Woven in herringbone, a variation of the twill weave recognizable by its zigzags, it displays a particularly graphic and generous texture. Developed especially for us by a renowned Italian weaver , this wool herringbone has ecru and brown threads; a tasty combination that delivers a gourmet and warm mottled look.
As for the cut, we played the modernity card by drawing a line relatively close to the body. Unlike the size of period pieces - disproportionately wide and often used as overcoats - it seemed preferable to us to assume a straight and slender line. Like any Duffle-coat, ours obviously remains spacious and enveloping, but it does not have the puffy side of its ancestors. On the contrary, it frames the outfit without gaping or tightening, emphasizing the silhouette with great presence. Covering without swaddling, it borrows from city coats the sharpness of their lines and the delicacy of their geometry.
You can therefore wear it over a big sweater , a work jacket or a blazer without overloading your outfit; while enjoying the generosity of its luxurious wool fabric.
Authenticity in every detail
Overflowing with subtleties, the Duffle-coat is known and recognized for the many ornaments it offers to see. Superfluous in appearance, these actually have a proven utility, which is why we have kept them all. Respecting the codes and heritage requires, here are the special attributes that you will find on our Duffle-coat:
- the famous Brandenburg buckles. Inherited from the Prussian army, these oblong wooden sticks mounted on rope fasteners made it easy to open and close the coat, even with gloves on. A detail that is still useful today, which combines elegance, practicality and singularity.
- a pair of deep patch pockets. You probably won't be putting binoculars or a navigation chart in them, but you'll have plenty of room to put your hands, keys, chewing gum and hat in them.
- the drawstring in the hood. In addition to working a well-fitting shape, we added a discreet button placket so you can adjust it to your liking.
- the famous shoulder panels. A historical gimmick that dates back to the first Duffle-coats of the John Partridge period, these elements have a practical and aesthetic dimension. On the one hand, they allow to line this area particularly exposed to bad weather while promoting the durability of the coat; on the other hand, they contribute to the general structure of the piece and its design.
- the tightening tabs at the wrists. The worst enemies of sailors on the high seas, air currents are also the worst enemies on dry land. Taking the example of sailors' duffle coats, we have therefore added buttoned adjusters at the bottom of the sleeves to allow you to seal them if necessary.
- the mignonette in the sleeves. With a 100% wool fabric of 400 gr/m2, there is no need to line the body of the coat. On the other hand, we have sewn an ecru viscose lining in its sleeves to make it easier to put on the pieces underneath.
It's up to you to tame the Duffle Coat
A major new addition to the fall-winter 2024 season, our first Duffle-coat celebrates tradition, authenticity, know-how and a certain idea of modernity. Without betraying its heritage, we have adapted it to contemporary use to make it the pillar of your winter wardrobe. A wall against the cold, a rampart against the winds, this impregnable citadel puts its thick woolen cloth at the service of all your expeditions.
To wear this masterpiece, you are spoiled for choice: pleated pants , a turtleneck sweater and a dress jacket for a formal outfit; chinos , textured knit and a work jacket for a sophisticated ensemble; or jeans , a chambray shirt and a trucker sweater for a more casual look.
On this, all that remains is for us to wish you good luck.