A formidable shield against the elements, the Duffle coat is arguably the ultimate winter coat. A quintessential piece of British menswear, it boasts a rich heritage and enduring appeal.
For the first time this season, HAST unveils its own take on this wardrobe icon, balancing elegance with everyday performance.
The story of an enduring coat
Closely tied to the wool itself, the story of the Duffle coat begins in Belgium, near Antwerp. As early as the 15th century, the small town of Duffel built its reputation weaving dark wool fabrics of exceptional thickness and density.
Renowned across Europe, the fabric soon found its way to England, where John Partridge first used it to make coats in 1887. Featuring a protective hood, shoulder capes, rope fastenings and large patch pockets, these early designs were the clear ancestors of the modern Duffle coat.
Warm and weather-resistant, they caught the attention of the Royal Navy, which issued them to sailors in the late 19th century. Yet it was after the Second World War that they gained worldwide popularity, when British manufacturers Harold and Freda Morris bought military surplus stock to sell to civilians. Its success led them to launch their own brand, updating the Duffle coat with a more contemporary fit.
The Duffle coat according to Hast
A cornerstone of British elegance, the Duffle coat is an icon of timeless style. Its structure, proportions, drape, fabric and colour all embody a distinct sartorial aesthetic, striking the perfect balance between rigour, precision and ease.
True to our ambition to craft exceptional garments for your daily life, we set out to interpret this British classic, taking care to infuse it with the balance and precision quintessential to Hast.
A true defence against the cold, our Duffle coat is crafted from a substantial 400 gsm wool fabric. Woven in a herringbone pattern—a twill variation known for its distinctive zigzags—it features a rich, textured surface. Specially developed for us by a renowned Italian mill, this wool herringbone combines ecru and brown yarns to create a warm, subtly nuanced marl.
For the fit, we chose a modern approach with a clean, tailored silhouette. Unlike vintage cuts—often oversized and intended to be worn as heavy outer layers—we opted for a straight, streamlined cut. Like any classic Duffle coat, ours remains comfortably roomy, yet free from the bulk of its predecessors. Instead, it drapes naturally without pulling or gaping, flattering the frame with understated ease. Providing warmth without restriction, it borrows the sharp lines and clean geometry of tailored overcoats.
You can easily slip it over a chunky jumper, a work jacket or a blazer without excess bulk, all while enjoying the generous drape of its luxurious wool cloth.
Authenticity in every detail
Rich in character, the Duffle coat is famous for its signature functional details. Seemingly decorative, each serves a genuine purpose, which is why we preserved them all. True to its heritage, here are the distinctive features of our Duffle coat:
- the unmistakable toggle closures. Borrowed from military garments, these oblong wooden toggles attached to rope loops were designed to fasten and unfasten easily, even with heavy gloves. A practical and stylish detail that lends the coat its authentic character.
- a pair of deep patch pockets. While you may not need them for charts or binoculars, they offer ample room for your hands, keys and winter essentials.
- the hood fastening tab. In addition to a well-proportioned shape, we added a discreet button tab so you can adjust it to your liking.
- the iconic shoulder yokes. A historical signature dating back to the earliest John Partridge Duffle coats, these panels serve both functional and aesthetic purposes. They reinforce an area particularly exposed to rain while enhancing the coat's longevity, and they define the piece's distinctive structure and profile.
- cuff tabs. A sailor's worst enemy on the open seas, draughts are no kinder on dry land. Taking a cue from sailors' Duffle coats, we added buttoned sleeve tabs so you can cinch them tight whenever needed.
- viscose sleeve lining. Crafted from a 400 gsm 100% wool fabric, the coat body needs no lining. We have, however, added an ecru viscose lining to the sleeves so you can slip it on effortlessly over other layers.
Make the Duffle coat your own
A highlight of the Autumn-Winter 2024 season, our first Duffle coat celebrates tradition, authenticity, craftsmanship and modern design. True to its heritage, we adapted it for contemporary life to create an essential piece for your winter wardrobe. A dependable shield against the cold and wind, this substantial wool coat is built to accompany you anywhere.
When it comes to styling this piece, the options are endless: pair it with pleated trousers, a roll neck jumper and a tailored jacket for a formal look; a chino, textured knitwear and a work jacket for a refined, layered feel; or jeans, a chambray shirt and a half-zip jumper for a more relaxed take.
With that, all that remains is to wish you fair winds.